Foodie Chat (12): The Mermaid Inn

Hey, New Yorkers! Make sure you squeeze a dinner at the Mermaid Inn in your busy schedule before it gets too cold, if you haven't done so in the summer. This New England fish shack style restaurant frequents the list of NYC's best oyster bars year after year, and the price is unbeatable.

Don't get confused with the word "Inn" in its name. This is a sophisticated yet casual spot with a Cape Cod vibe known for its fresh unfussy seafood. If $10 for half dozen oysters is not a good enough deal for you, go for its happy hour (all night Monday and 5-7 pm otherwise) when you can have $1/each oysters. Those oysters are juicy and super fresh. The blackened catfish will melt in your mouth and the lobster sandwich is just perfect. At the end of the meal, you will get a complimentary mini chocolate pudding and a fish fortuneteller that literally tells everyone that he/she is in passion -- now you understand why it's one of the most popular dating places in NYC?

BTW, the service is incredibly fast and attentive.

Address: 96 Second Ave, NY, NY 10003
Telephone: 212 674 5870

Foodie Chat (11): Amuse Wine Bar

I always hesitate on writing reviews on wine bars. First of all, everyone has different taste buds and the same wine may taste differently by different people. To make things even more complicated, I find that sometimes the same wine tastes differently on different days, depending on my mood, diet, activity level and hydration. That is why it's always a good idea to ask for a sample before you order a glass of wine. Secondly, bar tenders play a critical role in running a fun bar. You may go to the same bar and taste the same wine all the time, but one day feel completely different when your favorite bar tender is not there.

That said, I feel obliged of writing a review for Amuse Wine Bar, a hidden gem in Manhattan's lower east side.

Amuse is a super friendly wine bar for everyone. Unlike many pretentious wine bars where you are left with a thick dictionary of unknown foreign names that may potentially dig deep into your pocket, the wine list in Amuse is both extensive and approachable. The menu is informative as every wine has a brief description of its taste under the name. If you are still in doubt, feel free to talk to the knowledgeable staff. They will recommend a sip either to suit your preference or to pair your food. To sweeten the deal, Amuse has happy hour wine tasting special Monday through Saturday between 3 and 7 pm: $15 for three 2-oz wines three kind of cheese and three kind of meat. I had this wine tasting special last Saturday. Man, every wine had a generous pour. It's almost impossible to beat this deal in Manhattan.

Even on a rainy Saturday afternoon, the ambiance at Amuse was charming. The place looked cozy and quaint with simple wood tables, couch and coffee table. The wall was decorated with humorous paints from Wizard Skull. We were served by Yudheer Manandhar, who turned out to be the general manager of the bar. He was a chatty and funny guy who knew everything on the menu. His recommendation on both wine and cheese were very well received. He told us that Amuse also has live music with no cover charge on weekend nights. I will definitely check it out next time.

Yudheer told me that the owner of the bar firmly believed that drinking wine should be as relaxing as drinking beer. Apparently Amuse has done a good job to make her customers happy and relaxed.

Address: 121 Ludlow St., New York, NY 100002
Telephone: 212 477 0100

When East Meets West (4): Fuleen

在Chinatown的东南角，有一片老派的中国餐馆和店铺，因为不在Chinatown中心，生意稍嫌冷清，却往往能找到物超所值的去处。孔子像脚下的富临海鲜，就是一个我认为被under appreciated的粤菜馆。

第一次去富临，是几年前跟着一个香港同事一起去的，那时刚发了年终奖。我们有个同事很迷信，说发奖金以后一定要花出去一部分，回报社会，不然明年的奖金就不漂亮了，所以我们几个人有发了钱就出去大吃一顿的传统。那年去的就是富临，一进去就看见俗艳的大红大金，然后点了一桌子龙虾大蟹，满满地给了25%的小费，算下来才20+刀一个人，服务员见我们出手大方又一直说英语（因为有美国同事在场，而且我跟香港同事说中文也是鸡同鸭讲互相听不懂），送我们出门的时候大鞠躬用日语道别，把我们笑了个半死。不过那顿饭光聊天去了，没太注意饭菜，心里还隐隐觉得吃得太便宜了，怕是会影响第二年的收成，哈哈。

前一阵子偶尔走到那一片，我突然想起这家餐馆，忍不住去吃了一次。。。然后忍不住又吃了一次。。。然后忍不住又吃了一次。。。一个月之内连去三趟，突然领悟到这家老派粤菜馆的好处来。

不知道什么时候起，川菜几乎占领了中国菜的半壁江山，每每中国朋友聚会，不是麻辣烫就是水煮鱼，让人一想起中国菜就是辣！油！咸！全然忘记了中国菜也有清淡宜人讲究食材的粤菜，而且价格也并不比全凭作料撑场面的川菜馆更贵。

富临主要卖海鲜，每天都有很多游水虾游水鱼供客人挑选。点一磅珊瑚虾，简单的白灼一下，或者点一个活龙虾，喀碴喀碴葱姜炒炒，就鲜美极了，不需要多少作料来配伍。在我看来，新鲜的水产原本就有自己微妙的味道和口感，如果用浓浓的作料盖住就可惜了。

除了海鲜，富临还擅长做各种传统粤菜，菜式虽不新奇，做得甚是讲究，连红笕菜都要用切的细细的火腿和鲜香菇来提味，绝不是随便打发人的。

事实上，我今天才发现富临在Michelin上面是被推荐过的，可以说明这家的菜的确做得不错。

除了物美，这家的价钱实在是公道。我周末才去upper west side的蜀留香吃了一顿，随便吃几个菜就将近50刀一个人了，放在富临，这50刀差不多能够两个人的晚饭。

富临最实惠的则是午饭，$5.75外卖或$6(+tip)堂吃，包括一菜一饭一汤，而且菜的份量巨大。我点过一次豉汁小白鲳，以为能有两条小鱼就不错了，打开一看，居然有四条，饭盒塞得满满的。

要说店面，外面的招牌已经褪了色，里面则是很老派的大红大金装饰，店中心还供着福禄寿，的确很是落伍，不过餐馆的卫生等级是A，服务生也很勤快利索，这倒是比很多装修新潮的中餐馆还强些。

这个地方有人说不好找，其实也不难，站在孔子像脚下四处一望，你就能看到富临的招牌了。

Address: 11 Division St., New York, NY 10002

Telephone: 212 941 6888

Foodie Chat (10): Ruxbin

Business travel has pros and cons. You've got the chance of visiting new places and trying new restaurants, but the unpredictable delay may leave you with nothing but frustration. After a delayed flight on my recent trip to Chicago, I pulled out all my left-over optimism and declared war against fatigue and frustration. My weapon was eating a nice dinner. No more Gibson's or Capital Grille. Dying from boredom, I wanted something innovative and funky. I wanted to be pleasantly surprised.... After a quick search on Yelp, I called Ruxbin and made a reservation the minute the plane hit the ground. All right, Edward Kim: born in US as a Korean descendant and trained in Thomas Keller's Per Se, you chose to be a chef rather than a lawyer. I assume you must have passion and talent in the culinary world. Surprise me, please!

Apparently Ruxbin is a popular dating place. Upon arrival, I saw the neat tiny place packed with hipsters and just the right amount of hustle bustle. The ambiance couldn't be better. Cozy, rustic and intimate. Even with a reservation, I had to wait for about 20 mins before getting seated. I would have been annoyed by then in any other places. But the hostess, Jenny Kim,  the chef's sister, had the most beaming smile in the world that could light up the darkest sky. If I were a man, I would have fallen in love with her.

I ordered two appetizers and one entree when I was finally seated. No, three appetizers actually, as the waitress went into a rambling speech of how extraordinary their fries were. I rarely eat fries, but her enthusiasm amused me, and I decided to give it a try. -- Yes, I ordered a lot, and that's usually what people do when they are really hungry and tired. If you are on a weight losing program, starvation and stress are your enemies. Keep that in mind!

I have to say, their garlic fries were awesome! If you crave fries, get high quality ones like these. They were made of real potatoes, cut into skinny sticks, flavored with aromatic garlic and herbs, and cooked to perfection -- crispy and tender. Hands down the best fries I've ever had.

Octopus was also a perfect Asian fusion appetizer. Octopus slices were juicy and tender. The black bean sauce with ginger and scallion was definitely taken from a page of Asian cooking book, but the presentation and the texture demonstrated technique and thoughts usually came from western fine dining.

Pork belly surprised me by its texture and flavor. Typical Asian take on pork belly, as you see in most Chinese and Japanese restaurants, is usually on the tender and juicy side. Ruxbin has decided to go dry instead. The outside of the pork belly were probably seared or grilled. The meat was crispy outside, firm but not overly chewy inside. The meat itself also seemed leaner than what I usually have. Different, but still very good. The citrus flavor was very refreshing on a hot summer evening, another deviation from traditional hearty Asian treatment with pork belly.  

Lamb saddle and belly was also very tender and flavorful. It melted in my mouth. I was just too full by the time it arrived to fully appreciate it.

From my one and only dining experience in Ruxbin, I was more impressed by its appetizers than entree. But it may be because I started too hungry and ordered too much.

This is a BYO place. Ruxbin does not sell alcohol and charges $6 to open your bottle. I had their passionfruit basil soda instead. It was very refreshing and had just the right amount of sweetness. Delightful.

Did I say I loved loved loved the decor and ambiance??? This place was just charming!!!

It was an outstanding dining experience in Ruxbin. I came in with depression, and left in high spirit. The food, the ambiance, and the service was absolutely therapeutical. I will be back.

Address: 851 N Ashland Ave, Chicago, IL 60642
Telephone: 312 624 8509

Foodie Chat (9): Petrossian

NYC Summer Restaurant Week is back. Restaurant week is always a good chance to try out new places. Although you may not get the best dishes from the restaurant, you do get a sense of its general style and flavor. When you return to the same restaurant for their restaurant week specials, it may be a sign that you've been in the city for too long. This is exactly what happened to us this week. My BFF and I returned to Petrossian for their $38 restaurant week dinner menu, the same $48 prix fixe dinner menu they offer throughout the year.

Caviar is the staple here. So we both ordered the Transmontanus USA Farmed Caviar for $12 extra. The caviar came in a tiny tin with a piece of fluffy blini and crème frâiche. The natural sweetness of the blini, the smoothness of the creme blended exquisitely with the caviar. It tasted neither too salty nor overly fishy.

For the entree, my BFF originally wanted to order the steak. I persuaded her to have the Sturgeon ($8 extra) instead. Often referred to as "primitive fishes", sturgeon (鲟) is one of the oldest species among all fishes. Their morphological characters, such as elongated bodies and lack of scales, have remained relatively unchanged since the earliest fossil record. Sturgeons are also harvested for their roe. Because they are slow-growing and mature very late in life, most species of sturgeons are currently at the edge of extinction. You may call me environmentally irresponsible, but my philosophy is: if we kill a sturgeon to get its roe and make caviar, it only makes sense that we also eat its flesh. Anyway, if you are like me and curious about sturgeon, Petrossian is one of the few restaurants that serves sturgeon and it knows how to cook it. I had it last time when I visited Petrossian. It had a very distinct texture -- firm, but not overly chewy. My BFF also loved it.

I ordered Mackerel for a change. The presentation was impeccable (shown in the picture). A piece of grilled fish sat on top of tender mushrooms and baby spinach. Scallions and carrot slices added more springy colors to the plate. The fish was tender and delicate, the sauce was light and flavorful, and the sliced ginger had an extra kick that aroused all my taste buds. It was a beautiful course from all aspects.

You may skip the dessert. Nothing to write home about. Do have a sip of espresso though. As a French restaurant, Petrossian respects coffee. Wine is also reasonably priced.

Housed in the historic Alwyn Court Building, Petrossian is lavishly decorated with crystals, bronze sculptures, china, and chandelier, all harmonizing to create an old-school upscale ambiance. However the service was not in par with its food and decor. I had no complaint of our waitress, but a tad of warmth and smile would have made us happier.

Address: 182 West 58th Street, New York, NY
Telephone:  212 245 2214

Foodie Chat (8): Bamiyan

Sure, Turkish food sounds exotic, but have you tried Afghani?

Bamiyan is one of those offbeat and reasonably priced dining choices in Murray Hill that serves Afghani cuisine. Afghanistan’s cooking tends to be light on spice and shares a lot with Turkish and Greek cuisine. However Bamiyan will never get confused with Turkish Kitchen which is only steps away. Some people will love the low-to-the-ground tables at the front covered in tapestries and embroidered pillows that smack of authenticity, and some will love that the owners here, in contrast to almost everywhere else, actually want you to take your shoes off. New York offers plenty of options for authentic ethical cuisine, but Bamiyan is among the oldest and best when it comes to Afghani food.

People all over the world make dumplings in their own way. Chinese dumplings are all about the fillings and use very simple dipping sauce, while Afghani dumplings are the opposite. Scallion Dumplings with Minced Beef Sauce Topped with Minced Garlic Yogurt Sauce are simply delicious, with its hearty and creamy minced beef sauce. The filling is almost bland and the crystal wrap seems to be made of rice rather than wheat.

Another appetizer we tried is Bamiyan Special Yogurt Dip with chopped shallots, cucumbers & garlic topped with olive oil, mint, cranberries & crushed walnuts. Sounds like a mouthful? And the plate actually has dip in three flavors. Most likely that you will like at least one. For me, the only one I was not crazy about was the cranberries dip, and that was mostly due to my peculiar taste against sweeties. The other two dips, however, were divine.

Being one of the icons of Mid East cuisine, Lamb Stew with Sweet Rice is always a safe bet in Bamiyan. Hearty but not overly heavy, it is loaded with all the spice and flavor you would anticipate in lamb stew. This is especially comfortable on a snowy winter evening.

If you are not in the mood for red meat, Chicken Stew with Brown Rice may be an option. The sauce is light but flavorful. Chicken, however, is not as tender as you may wish, which is normal for any chicken breast stew. And the brown rice is essentially "browned" (or stir-fried) rice, not the whole grain some health conscious low-carb diners may take at its face value.

The staff are unfailingly polite and usually you can walk in without reservation. If you don't like taking off your shoes or sitting at the low tables at the window, you can always find a spot in the spacious dining room with regular tables covered in white table cloths. Last but not the least, it has hookah in their lounge area which is a real mystery to me.

Address: 358 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10016
Telephone: 212 481 3232

Foodie Chat (7): Zutto

It has always be a mystery to me why people would wait for hours in line for a bowl of ramen in front of Ippudo, even on a snowy day. I know it's iconic, but sometimes iconic also means run-of-the-mill. True, it's good ramen -- definitely too salty to my taste -- but there are other places in the city that serve equally good ramen, if not better. Zutto is one of them.

Zutto has been overshadowed by its shining neighbors such as Nobu and Brushstroke in the past 30 years or so, until it is revamped by a Bouley and Per Se veteran, Joshua Smookler. The chef designed a short but well-edited menu and beer list that turned Zutto into THE ramen powerhouse in Tribecca.

I've been to Zutto a couple of times, and have tried quite a few items on the menu.  Tonkotsu ramen is one of their signature dishes. The broth is thick and cream-colored, so concentrated with marrow and bone that your lips get sticky. In terms of the toppings, instead of pork belly that is standard in most ramen places, they serve juicy pork jowl chashu. The wobbling white fat will surely take you to heaven. On the light side, seafood ramen tastes quite healthy. The flavor has nothing to write home about, but the noodles are cooked to perfection, as in other ramen dishes. Wasabi Shoyu ramen seems to be quite spicy. My Japanese friend was sweating throughout the meal.

But Zutto is known not just for its ramen. Steamed buns are many patrons' favorite and must-have, and short ribs buns are the clear winner of all, filled with saucy, braised meat dressed sparsely with kimchi and a bit of spicy mayo. Gang Nam style buns have an interesting take on Korean essentials -- kimchi. A little on the spicy side, but worth a try. I'd suggest you to avoid pork belly buns if you like pork belly stew in Chinese cuisine. The sauce is way too sugary, even to the American standard. We ordered some in a large group setting, and not a single one could finish his/her pork belly bun. A bummer. Shishito peppers are also pretty good. It reminds me of those charred fried peppers (虎皮辣椒) my parents use to cook on hot summer evenings. Yes, we ate it in summer, and cooled our numbed tongues with icy cold beers. :)

Unlike those more high-end Japanese restaurants only steps away, there is no hush-hush reverence at Zutto--it's a self-styled Japanese pub, and that means jovial noshing at a huge communal table. The staff is friendly, chill and hippy. But they may get carried away on busy evenings. The best time to visit Zutto is lunchtime when the place is quiet and slow... Did I mention I was sitting next to Jeremy Lin on my first lunch at Zutto? That was in those Linsanity days when he was still in Knicks. At his height, he couldn't hide himself from anybody. :)

Address: 77 Hudson St., New York, NY 10013
Telephone: 212-233-3287

Photo credit: The second and third pictures are sourced from villagevoice.com.

Foodie Chat (6): Khe-Yo

The beauty of NYC dining is more or less in its diversity. Cheap or exquisite, east or west, one can always find something that appeals to him, with very rare exceptions. With the opening of Khe-Yo, the one and only Laotian (老挝) dine-in restaurant in the city, one more exception is eliminated with elegance.

Khe-Yo is by no means cheap or crappy. The brick walls of this quaint Tribeca establishment are decorated with ivy pots here and there. The carefully distressed tables look absolutely south east Asia under the dim light. Even on a sunny afternoon, the minute you step into Khe-Yo, you have the illusion of entering the bustling Bangkok night market. No wonder it has soon grown into one of the truly trendy restaurants in this neighborhood.

Sticky rice was served free, in place of bread. The bang bang sauce coming with it was fiery hot, and at the same time, amazingly pure and airy. I couldn't stop eating it. Make sure that you don't pour bang bang sauce profusely on your rice. It's far beyond Sichuan spiciness. Use caution and treat it as Indonesian chili sauce or habanero sauce.

The appetizers on the menu seemed so tempting that we ordered three. The Smashed Green Papaya Salad (as shown in the picture) was spicy, crunchy and airy. I loved it. The Bamboo Grilled Ginger Quail was impeccable in both texture and flavor. Strongly recommended. We also ordered Grilled Laos Style Sausage. Dry and chewy, very flavorful, maybe a little too strong for me. The serving size of the sausage was really small.

For the entree, we ordered Pork Curry Noodles, one of the signature dishes in that region, including Thailand, Burma and Yunnan of China. It came with thick curry broth with pork, eggs, and rice noodles. The vegetables and herbs came on the side. So I put them in the soup and mixed it. Compared to similar noodles in Thai and Yunnan restaurants, this was definitely on the more pungent side. Thick, oily, and with multiple layers of spices. I could see my cholesterol soaring with every sip of the soup...happily!

To offset that, we ordered a bottle of red wine...Kinda lame, isn't it? Khe-Yo does offer some interesting cocktails with a touch of south east Asia, such as Lao Lao Pineapple Infused Cognac, Cucumber Thai-chili Vodka, Ginger Mimosa with Tamarind. If I come again in summer, I might not be able to resist one.

Address: 157 Duane St
Telephone: 212 587 1089

Foodie Chat (5): Blue Hill

New Yorkers are obsessed with healthy life style. We sweat in the weight room, run in Central Park, eat grass-fed beef and wild caught salmon, pick up groceries at farmer's market, and starve ourselves with juice cleansing. At any social gathering, the most resonating discussion is inevitably built around health: diet vs. exercise, fat vs. carbs, Atkins vs. Paleo, strength vs. cardio... Not everyone is able to live large, but we all want to live long. And among all these, we go to Blue Hill, which offers the ultimate healthy fine dining experience at a hefty price tag.

Blue Hill at Stone Barns is one of the most hard-to-book restaurants in the metro area. Given that it's not even in New York, its simplistic menu, high price tag and extremely limited availability makes it one-of-a-kind dining mystery to me. Fortunately I've been to its more approachable Manhattan sister restaurant in Washington Place...twice, and got a rough idea at what Blue Hill offers.

The picture shows one of Blue Hill's signature appetizers: This Morning's Farm Egg. That's right -- this egg was laid this morning by a happy free range hen that was fed with natural organic food and has been running around the sprawling Rockfeller family farm in Westchester since the day she was born. That bright red-orange egg yolk and unmistakable strong egg flavor is not what you usually get in a typical organic grocery store. That fresh.

That's what is sold in Blue Hill. All ingredients are fresh and green, mostly from its own farm. And that's why seating is so limited on daily basis. Unlike other chefs who are more or less concentrated on showing off their mastery of spices and flavors, Dan Barber of Blue Hill is dedicated to making sure that those ingredients don’t compete with flashy sauces or spices. Blue Hill pays clean homage to nature’s remarkable bequests.

Another appetizer I tried was Seafood Pie. Called pie, it was actually a very thick creamy soup with quite a bit seafood buried underneath. Delicate and tasty. The thick paste-like texture strengthened the usual light flavor of a soup. I really appreciate the chef's imagination and technique.

On my first visit, I ordered Hudson Valley Chicken as the entree. Butter soft and moist, with remarkable clarity of flavor. It reminded me of the free range happy chickens I used to have back in China. But this was more meaty and tender. On my second visit, I ordered Stone Barns Berkshire Pig.  It featured various cuts of the pig, almost like an individual serving of a whole pig dinner. The jowl (猪脸）was juicy and creamy, almost melted in my mouth. It tasted like suckling pig. The snout (猪嘴) was sticky and jelly. The tenderloin was infused with rosemary and garlic flavor, with a pinkish center. For that reason, it was not dry or rubbery. Not juicy either -- I guess it's impossible to make a lean cut juicy or buttery anyway. The shoulder was chewy in texture and smokey in flavor. Overall, this was a very interesting combination of flavor and texture of pork parts.

For dessert, I had the lightest one on the menu, Citrus. The cake was light and airy. Just right for the citrus flavored ice cream.

Overall, Blue Hill at Washington Place was tiny but sweet, elegant and sophisticated. The waiters were polite and attentive. It's exquisite dining that features farm-to-table ingredients and less intrusive cooking techniques. If you are used to heavy seasoning or flashy spices, this may not be the place for you. For me, this is a hidden gem. Two thumbs up.

Address: 75 Washington Place
Telephone: 212 539 1776

Foodie Chat (4): L'Artusi

Want to find a place in Big Apple that delivers al dente pasta? Come to L'Artusi. I went to a business dinner with a big group a couple of days ago, and everyone went home happily stuffed. :)

Photo credit: Time Out

We started with three appetizers. Hamachi Ceviche was served in small portion but definitely tasty with the right amount of acidity and fruitiness. Market Salad was so fresh and flavorful. Despite my original plan of having one bite on each dish, I reached for the second serving. Not really impressed with Sweetbreads a la Plancha.

All three pastas were delightful, all cooked to al dente. Orencchiette with Sausage Salumi and Pecorino, and Garanelli with Mushrrom Ragu and Ricotta Salata were chewy and flavorful. Ravioli with Butternut Squash, Sage, Brown Butter and Parmesan was a vegetarian pasta a bit too sweet and starchy to my taste. But I could see my vegetarian friends liked it a lot.

For the entree, we ordered Arctic Char and Roasted Chicken. Oh, this arctic char! I wish I had bigger stomach for it! It was so tender and juicy that I immediately regretted that hadn't resisted the temptation of appetizers and pasta. It looked like light pink salmon at the first glace, but tasted more juicy and tender. I couldn't say no to fatty fish like this! Roasted Chicken was also good according to my friends, but I really didn't remember after all the fine wine and laughter.

If you go to L'Artusi one day, don't forget to order Brussels Sprouts as the side dish. Mark my word!

I was too full for dessert. So I only took a bite on the Fruit Salad. Fresh and juicy. Too full to make any meaningful judgement, sorry!

We booked the private room on the second floor, and the waiter was very attentive and professional. The only complaint was that they ran out of our first two choices of red wine and the one recommended by the waiter was not to our standard. Fortunately we had a large group and they offered a deep wine list. We finally found a good bottle on the third try. :)

I will come back, for sure...

Address: 228 W 10th St., New York, NY
Telephone: 212 255 5757

When East Meets West (4): Red Farm

概要

Red Farm 严格说起来不算中国菜，是个fusion餐馆。如果你吃腻了唐人街千篇一律的dim sum，到这里来尝试一下新口味还是不错的。

这家餐馆坐落在west village，装修成纯朴的乡村风格，价格却绝对是west village的价格，不便宜的，绝对的扮猪吃老虎。餐馆中间一张大木桌子很是显眼，顾客群年轻嬉皮，气氛轻松快活。这家用料相当讲究，是唐人街的便宜餐馆不能比的。至于菜么，既有比较地道的中国口味的，也有照顾美式西餐的，就不好说了。我倒是不反对中餐不断的创新和改良，老吃同样的菜也怪腻味的，对不对？我尝试过的菜有几个：

• Shu Mai Shooters 用料讲究，货真价实的鲜贝，比唐人街的假鲜贝做的烧卖要鲜美多了。
• Crab & Eggplant Bruschetta 是很不错的创新，蟹肉放在炸茄子上面，而不是面包片上面，口感上形成有趣的对比。
• Pork buns 外面的面皮蓬松，里面的红烧肉绵软，入口即化，非常好吃。
• Pastrami egg roll 和 Spicy Crispy Beef 都比较偏美国人的口味。.

I hesitated quite a bit before I wrote down the name of Red Farm. It’s not completely Chinese cuisine. It’s the so called fusion. However, if you are tired of those run-off-the-mill dim sums and want some creative experiments, this is THE place to go. Plus, the location and service is hard to beat.

As its name suggests, Red Farm is an unpretentious farmhouse that attempts to deliver green market sensibility. Its wooden communal table, boisterous young crowd, no-reservation policy and one-page menu all echo that long passed old age when every ingredient was fresh and organic. Fusion concepts are always filled with potential pitfalls, but Red Farm’s cooking style is playful and fresh. It serves both spicy crispy beef as an upgrade from the orange crispy beef you find in any Americanized Chinese chain, and pork buns that all real Chinese will die for. I’m a true believer of evolution. If we human beings have evolved in intelligence, knowledge, technology and life style, so should our culinary skills and recipes. I’m always open to new experience and ideas.

In Red Farm, any dish could be a miss or hit, depending on your own taste and acceptance to changes. I personally like the idea of the following:

Shu Mai Shooters win by its quality ingredient. You get a piece of real scallop in each shu mai, which is hard to find in Chinatown dim sum places. Besides, the delicate taste of mushroom and the warm broth reveals the sophisticated layers of flavor and the level of details you cannot find in traditional shu mai dishes.

Crab & Eggplant Bruschetta screams innovation. The buttery tender crab on top of the crispy tempura eggplant is an interesting play of texture. 

Pork buns? Oh, heavenly. The buns come as soft as a down pillow and the pork melts right in your mouth magically.  

Pastrami egg roll is a true fusion between the east and the west. Try it and let me know how you like it. It’s not really my thing, but my western friends went nuts about it. So did the Spicy Crispy Beef. These two signature dishes are too far reach for me. 

Finally, don’t get fooled by its rustic style. this cozy and intimate farmhouse is definitely on the pricey side. You pay for the west village experience and creative new recipe. I hope you will find the experiment worth the cost. J

Address: 529 Hudson St., New York, NY 10010
Telephone: 212 792 9700

Foodie Chat (3): Ocean Grill

Ocean Grill was the first restaurant I tried in this year's restaurant week. My BFF got a promotion. We had a little celebration in this seafood restaurant tucked way in UWS, and ordered from their restaurant week lunch menu.

The restaurant was spacious. Its decor had nothing to write home about, but had both a neighborhood charm and an upscale feel. As the meal went on and customers gradually filled the tables around us, I noticed that the crowd was relatively old compared to the chic places I frequent in Chelsea and Gramercy. Our waiter was warm, friendly, patient with my BFF's one-year old, and at the same time, smart enough to stay at arm length. We felt very much at home in this place.

I started with Port Poached Barlett Pear Salad. It tasted as if the leaves were just picked out of their backyard upon my order. Yes, THAT FRESH. All my other friends ordered Oyster Sampler and they loved it. Classic Seafood Cioppino was a little disappointing in that the linguine was overcooked, just like pasta in 90% of NYC restaurants. That is why I rarely eat pasta in this city. They are so beaten for so long in the boiling water that they've lost all their spongy liveliness before being presented absolutely dead on the table, with pores wide open and pupils diluted. I find it outrageous. Dude, if you don't know what is "al dente", you should simply NOT cook pasta! My BFF, however, prefers soft noodles. So she fell in love with it. That said, I have to admit the sauce was flawless. Simple tomato based red wine sauce with shell fish and hake. Full of flavor. I also had a bite or two of the Lemon Tart. It was OK.

I have to start a new paragraph to emphasize this: for some reason, their regular coffee was incredibly strong! I don't know whether it was the beans, the machine, or something else went wrong that day. It was not drinkable. I had to man-up before taking each sip. My BFF had to order another cup of decaf and it went well. So I guess it was the beans? That coffee definitely left some bitter taste that lingers till today.

If I live in this neighborhood, I can see myself coming back to Ocean Grill, maybe quite often. I'm charmed by its simple recipe, quality ingredients, warm service, neighborhood ambiance and glossy crowd. But I will stay away from any pasta and regular coffee. Its raw bar, especially the extensive oyster selection, seems quite interesting.

Address: 384 Columbus Ave., New York, NY 10024
Telephone: 212 579 2300

Foodie Chat (2): L'Ecole

Exquisite French meal does not have to break your bank. Arguably one of the five most renowned French restaurants in NYC, L'Ecole offers high-end French dining experience at totally affordable price. It serves prix-fixe lunch and dinner all year around. Menu changes frequently, and the only thing remains unchanged is that you will be surprised with delight. :)

Located at the border of SoHo and Chinatown, L'Ecole is the teaching restaurant of International Culinary Center, previously known as French Culinary Institute, which explains why L'Ecole serves mostly classic French recipes. In L'Ecole, the kitchen is the student chefs' classroom, and the plate is their homework. That's the reason why you can have high-end fine dining at such good prices. What you pay is volatility. Unlucky ones may get sub par homework occasionally, but usually the food is really good.

Here is my review of some dishes on their 2013/2014 Winter Curriculum.

Country Pate is classic. Truffle and pistachios add sophisticated rich flavor. One of the best pate appetizers you may find in New York.

Brussels Sprouts Salad is innovative, a happy marriage between French fine cuisine and Spanish tradition. Besides a couple of halved and charred ones, Brussels sprouts are shredded into hair-thin strings. That airy fluffy yellow-green lump is just delightful to look at. When you stab into that lump, you will find boquerones and paper-thin parmigiano-reggiano slices. The fresh bitter-sweetness of Brussels sprouts, the sourness saltiness and fishiness of boquerones, and the cheesy aroma of parmigiano-reggiano make this salad as refreshing as a summer breeze from Spanish Riviera.

Pan-Seared Duck Breast with Winter Vegetables is tender and moist. Classic red wine shallot sauce and winter vegetables are flavorful. Another French classic.

Pan-Seared Wild Black Bass is cooked perfectly. The flesh melts in your mouth. And I drained every drop of the miso-ginger consomme that comes with it. Absolutely delicious. Baby bok choy and shiitake mushrooms added some Asian touch to the dish.

Chestnut Cake has the right amount of sweetness, rich chestnut flavor, and creamy texture. It easily makes the best dessert I've had this winter. The sorbet that comes with the cake is too sweet for me though.

The service in L'Ecole is spot-on. Quick and neat. You also get complimentary appetizer bites and cookie samples. We got dulcetto bars that won the ICC's 2013 Cookie Olympics. Haha, that was hilarious. We didn't even know there was a Cookie Olympics!

Rumor says that, if you are lucky, you may see legendary chefs like Jacques Pepin and Alain Sailhac walking down the hall in their uniforms or asking diners for feedback. I'm not that lucky. The only two celebrity chefs I've met in my life so far are Jean-Georges Vongerichten in Perry St and a much less famous (but a much younger and better-looking) Vikas Khanna in Junoon. Cooking is both an art and a science. I'm always grateful when I finish a good meal. L'Ecole is where the future top chefs are trained, and I'm glad to share part of their experience and homework. :)

When East Meets West (3): Red Egg

摘要

推荐一个吃早茶的地方：Red Egg。我带好多老外去吃过，他们都很喜欢。味道很传统，环境和服务都比一般的粤式茶餐厅要好。

Red Egg根其他粤式茶餐厅不一样，没有推着走来走去的小车。我特别不喜欢小车在本来就很拥挤的过道挤来挤去的，总怕弄脏了衣服，而且经常小车推来推去都是同样的东西，很是考验人的耐心。红蛋家不一样，你拿铅笔在早茶的菜单上勾出来自己想要的东西就可以了，省心多了。

老外都很喜欢他家的菊花茶，稍微加点点糖提个味就好了，没咖啡因，味道也不错。

红蛋的早茶和其他粤式茶餐厅差不多。不要吃他家的小笼包，不好吃，想吃就去鹿鸣春好了，没必要在粤菜馆吃，对吧？根本就是哄老外的。还有烧汁墨鱼仔，一盘小墨鱼浸在酱油味的卤汁里，我蜜最爱，每次必点，但是我发现老外没有一个爱吃的，都是尝了一个就罢手了，估计是太咸了。

红蛋有两个别的地方不容易吃到的菜，都是甜点。一个是原只椰青布丁，一个是榴莲酥。前者端上来是一整个椰子哦，很漂亮的。打开盖子，里面满满的白色椰子味的布丁，滑润爽口，也不会甜得让人腻味。吃完了布丁，就开始运动吧！使劲把椰子肉一点点刮下来吃，香香甜甜的。这个甜点特别受老外的欢迎。我每次带同事去吃，他们都会吃完以后每个人加点一个带回家去吃。榴莲酥就不好说了，毕竟榴莲这个东西爱得爱死恨得恨死，有的老外还挺爱吃的。酥酥的皮加软软的心儿，口感很好的。这东西刚上桌的时候心儿特别烫，吃的时候要小心。

红蛋不是象其他茶餐厅那样吵吵闹闹的，可以很轻松的聊天谈话。装饰也比较现代，不是那种大红大绿金光闪闪的，都是我喜欢它的原因。

I like taking westerners to dim sums. Just like Spanish tapas, dim sums serve in small plates, a hard-to-beat feature in a city that treasures experience and trashes commitment.

My go-to dim sum place is Red Egg, at the intersection of China town and Soho. I've been there numerous times with friends from all kinds of origins and they all fell in love with it. As a result, I became committed to this place that serves non-committing size of dishes.    

You won’t see dim sum carts in Red Egg. Some people find the carts exotic and intriguing, but I don’t like them weaving through tables, especially in peak hours. It makes me nervous that I have to watch my elbows and back constantly. Also I hate sticking my head over a cart just to find out that it carries something I don’t like or already have. Patience is a virtue that’s never flowed in my blood. In Red Egg, you get a list of dim sums and a pencil. Mark the ones you like and pass it to the waiter. Done. Perfecto!

Before we jump into the food, let me remind you that my western friends all love their chrysanthemum tea with just a pinch of sugar: caffeine-free, healthy, and tasty.

Most dim sums in Red Egg taste just as good as in other famous dim sum places like Golden Unicorn. No better, no worse. Dim sums are easy run-off-the-mill dishes anyway. What I will avoid is Shanghainese Soup Dumplings. I don’t know since when soup dumplings have become the symbol of Chinese food in NYC. Maybe it’s partially due to the huge popularity of Joe’s Shanghai. Well, if you are in the mood of soup dumplings, you are definitely in the wrong place. Get your a$$ out and walk to Joe’s Shanghai, please, which is only several blocks away. Soup dumplings are Shanghainese food. Not wise to order them in a Cantonese restaurant. Did I say Chinese cuisine varies a lot by region? Oh yes, dim sum is Cantonese just in case you don’t know yet. Some Cantonese restaurants, like Reg Egg, serve soup dumplings to cater Americans, but that doesn’t mean they are good at it. Another tricky dish is Octopus in Sweet Bean Sauce. Some of my Chinese friends love it, but it’s never got any nods from westerners. I guess they are overwhelmed by its saltiness.

So what is unique on Red Egg’s dim sum menu? There are two unusual desserts. I’m not sure whether they are unique, but they are definitely hard to find in China town. The first one is Young Coconut Pudding. It comes in a coconut shell. Pudding is soft, smooth and tender, with just the right amount of sweetness. After eating the pudding, make sure that you scrap off the white coconut meat. Its creamy texture and rich flavor is always a blast. My co-workers like it so much that they usually order an extra to take home. Another rare dessert is Durian Puff. Durian is a weird fruit that people either love or hate. So this dessert could be a miss or hit. Honestly, it’s less stinky and more sweet than the notorious fresh fruit. If you deem yourself an adventurous eater, give it a try. The crispy puff and creamy fillings make an interesting contrast of texture. It’s served in non-committing small portions anyway! Be aware that the filling is boiling hot when it is served. Let it sit for a while before taking the first bite.

Red Egg has a clean and modern decor with a small bar at the entrance. Even at its peak hour, you can easily carry a conversation without screaming at the top of your voice.

Address: 202 Centre Street, New York, NY 10013

Telephone: 347 871 1123

Foodie Chat (1): Bar Boulud

It's restaurant week again, folks. You don't always get the best dishes on the restaurant week prix fixe menu, but it's still a good excuse to meet up with your friends over a good meal. Last night, we went to Bar Boulud and ordered from its $38 restaurant week menu.

Bar Boulud is a chic and casual French bistro owed by Daniel Boulud, one of the most celebrated chefs in NYC. Upon entrance, you will see arched cavern-like space furnished with blonde-wood booths and a big communal table, promising an intimate and personal experience at the first glance.

We arrived early and sat at the bar. To my big surprise, we didn't get any service for a good 5-10 minutes, the longest wait I've ever had in any Daniel Boulud franchise. We asked the lady at the door to ring us whenever a table opened up, and she never did. After sitting at the bar, eyeing all the empty tables and gradually burning out our patience, we asked an waitress if we could get a table. And we got it in two minutes... OK, I knew this was a casual restaurant and I should not expect the same "kind" of service as in Boulud Sud, but, given the price tag, I felt truly entitled to service of the same "level"!

Since we are at the price tag, Bar Boulud have an impressively deep wine list that goes all the way up to the north of $3,000 / bottle (I didn't flip through the whole list... no, I mean "the whole dictionary"... of course). Unfortunately they do not offer half bottles or quartinos that wine lovers are so crazy about. So we decided to go by glass. We started with something light and fruity, and moved on to Syrah that had a little more body as the meal came. Wines were good, but they could have poured a little more.

OK. Enough complaints. Here comes the best part: the food.

Bar Boulud knows how to serve simple food to its simple perfection. The pate was impeccable. The duck confit was crispy and tender. I was not a big fan of its chocolate tart, but it was not the end of the world. All my grudges were soon washed down by the fantastic food, fine wine, and bubbly conversation. I had a good time!

Overall, I would give a 3.5/5.0 to Bar Boulud. Food was great, but its service was definitely not in par with its less casual siblings. Its casual ambiance was deadly charming and could have made it an ideal  romantic dating spot, provided their service was upgraded from coach to first-class cabin. Till that day, I strongly suggest you avoid the risk and take your date to Boulud Sud, which is only blocks away.

When East Meets West (2): Lotus Blue

概要

Lotus Blue号称是曼哈顿的第一家云南菜馆。云南菜和泰国菜缅甸菜相近，善用各种香草，比如薄荷香茅紫苏香菜之类的，香料丰富，但是比四川菜要轻盈许多。

我是去年和几个同事一起去的，其中有2个美国人1个缅甸人。餐馆不小，靠窗的桌子很大，很安静，谈话的时候不需要扯着喉咙喊。服务生英语很好，人也很有礼貌。我有印象的几个菜是：

香蕉果蕾芒果沙拉（见下图）。菜很清爽可口，摆得也很漂亮。香蕉花是垫在下面好看的，主要是酸甜的芒果丝，薄荷紫苏香菜糅合在一起，丰富而轻盈，花生末的浓厚香气则是全菜的重心，就好像风筝的线一样把各种口味拴在一起。稍微有点点辣，但是并不过分，应该大部分人都可以吃。

三鲜过桥米线比传统版的要清爽一些，没有那么油腻，味道倒是很浓厚。肉嫩菜鲜，很赞！

传统气锅鸡非常成功，清鸡汤可以根法菜里面的consommé相比，鲜而不油腻。因为点的菜太多，我没有怎么吃鸡肉，但是那汤太鲜美了，被大家抢光了。

唯一不喜欢的菜是油炸红鳟鱼。老美同事点的，油腻腻的，不是我的菜。

Lotus Blue, located in Tribeca, is the first restaurant I've seen in Manhattan that serves Yunnan food. Unlike the chili-spicy Szechuan cuisine that most Americans are familiar with, Yunnan cuisine dances effortlessly with herbal spices such as mint, lemongrass, purple basil and cilantro. Compared to Szechuan food’s heartiness and intensiveness, Yunnan cuisine is more airy and naughty, almost weightless. Although I could easily relate it with Thai food, my Burmese friend almost screamed in tears when she had the first bite of the Yunnan noodle that tasted just like the noodle she had in her hometown.  

I went to Lotus Blue with two Americans and one Burmese on a sunny evening last year. We got a spacious table at the window. The place was quiet, perfect for a laid-back conversation. The waiter spoke fluent English and apologized politely when he found the bottle we picked was out of stock. We ended up with no drinks, I think. Otherwise the drink had to be mediocre since I don’t recall what we’d ordered. But the food was quite impressive.

Banana blossom salad (see the picture above) was a refreshing start. Shredded mango blended seamlessly with the sweet & sour dressing. Mint, basil, and cilantro layered airy spiciness, all rooted with the nutty grounded peanuts. A little kick with chili, but not overwhelming at all.

Three delights cross-bridge noodle was a less-oily healthy upgrade from the traditional Chinese delicacy. The broth was rich in flavor, yet clear in texture. Everything was cooked just right: tender meat, soft noodles, and fresh vegetables. It came in big portion.

Traditional Yunnan steam pot chicken was a master piece. If you are a fan of chicken consomme, you know what I’m talking about -- clear soup packed with that delicate flavor you can only find in organic chicken. I didn't eat much chicken (as always, we ordered too much), but the soup itself worth five stars.

The only disappointment was crispy red snapper, a fish dish that I can no longer find on their online menu. I guess they have removed it (I do hope so). However, I did find its picture in their online gallery (see below). Well, it was not terrible, but I simply don’t eat fried fish like that. Both my taste buds and my waist line screamed “NO”! Oh, yes, it was ordered by one of my American friends. J

Address: 110 Reade Street, New York, NY 10013

Telephone: 212 267 3777

When East Meets West (1): Finding the Perfect Modern Chinese Restaurant in Manhattan

概要

给外国朋友推荐中国餐馆是很痛苦的事情。好吃地道的中国餐馆通常又脏又挤，怎么看怎么也不上档次，服务也差，服务生拉长着脸，好像你欠着人家几吊钱似的，有时候人多还得根别人拼桌。档次高点的中国餐馆吧，又经常难以下咽，比如有名的Shun Lee，菜摆得很漂亮，服务也周到，可那菜的味道。。。真是去了一次就不想再去第二次了。

这个系列介绍几家我觉得不错的适合带外国朋友去吃的曼哈顿中国餐馆，环境干净舒服，服务比较西化，菜的味道也不错（当然，你如果除了辣呼呼的川菜以外什么都不爱吃的话，那也别去了）。这些地方我都是自己掏钱吃过的，I’m not affiliated with any restaurants, and I don’t get any discount or monetary benefit from them. 

这个系列的正文用英文写吧，因为这些比较适合老外自己吃，也适合中国同胞带老外去吃。

I’m a Chinese in New York. To be exact, I’m a Chinese with a bunch of foodie friends in all skin colors in the food capital of the world. From time to time, my foodie friends will pop the inevitable question:”What Chinese restaurants would you recommend?” Alas! This is among the top three questions I hate the most, the other two being “how’s your day/weekend” and “what do you do for fun”. They are all incredibly simple, so simple that you don’t know where to start with; they are open-ended, so open that you don’t know how much information is sufficient and spot-on without losing your audience. Plus, it’s really a pain in the a$$ to find a good Chinese restaurant that satisfies both Chinese taste buds and western dining culture.

It always amazes me that Americans tend to put Japanese food and Chinese food in the two extremes of dining spectrum although we are geographical neighbors. While Japanese restaurants are usually associated with being “chic”, “high-end” and “healthy”, Chinese restaurants are often viewed as being “cheap”, “dirty” and “oily”. The fact is Chinese cuisine varies a lot by region; it’s the Americanized Chinese fast food that pours tons of oily sauce on almost everything. Chicken with broccoli? Do you know we didn’t even have broccoli in China until it was imported in the late 20^th century?

New Yorkers have the luxury of accessing authentic Chinese cuisine in China town or Flushing. However, many Chinese restaurants are run in the traditional Chinese style: small, dark, crowded, noisy, smelly, and sometimes with service as poor as its ventilation. One of my western friends believed that all waiters in Chinese restaurants hated him, and it took me a while to explain to him that throwing dishes on the table or raising voice meant nothing but the waiter being in a rush.

That said, I have to compile a list of perfect modern Chinese restaurants for my western friends. My criteria are as follows:

• Authentic good Chinese cuisine. The food has to past my Chinese taste buds. A little fusion twist is OK, but the core cuisine has to be authentic. This criterion excludes some high-end restaurants such as Shun Lee.
• Pleasant dining experience. You may not get the same beamy bubbly little cutie in your next-door diner, or the black suit that silently leads you to the restroom the minute you stand up during the meal, but I promise no dish-throwing or screaming. Some or all of the staff are fluent in English. The restaurants have to look clean. Finally, you won’t be asked to share your table with a group of strangers when it gets crowded. This criterion excludes the majority of restaurants in China town and Flushing.

Last but not the least, here comes the disclaimer: I complied the list based on my own dining experience and personal taste. Things might have changed and past experience may not be indicative of future performance. If your favorite Chinese food is spring rolls or orange crispy beef, most likely you won’t agree with my selection. I eat on my own dime. I’m not affiliated with any restaurants, and I don’t get any discount or monetary benefit from them. 

Stay tuned.