Thursday, July 31, 2014

Foodie Chat (10): Ruxbin

Business travel has pros and cons. You've got the chance of visiting new places and trying new restaurants, but the unpredictable delay may leave you with nothing but frustration. After a delayed flight on my recent trip to Chicago, I pulled out all my left-over optimism and declared war against fatigue and frustration. My weapon was eating a nice dinner. No more Gibson's or Capital Grille. Dying from boredom, I wanted something innovative and funky. I wanted to be pleasantly surprised.... After a quick search on Yelp, I called Ruxbin and made a reservation the minute the plane hit the ground. All right, Edward Kim: born in US as a Korean descendant and trained in Thomas Keller's Per Se, you chose to be a chef rather than a lawyer. I assume you must have passion and talent in the culinary world. Surprise me, please!

Apparently Ruxbin is a popular dating place. Upon arrival, I saw the neat tiny place packed with hipsters and just the right amount of hustle bustle. The ambiance couldn't be better. Cozy, rustic and intimate. Even with a reservation, I had to wait for about 20 mins before getting seated. I would have been annoyed by then in any other places. But the hostess, Jenny Kim,  the chef's sister, had the most beaming smile in the world that could light up the darkest sky. If I were a man, I would have fallen in love with her.

I ordered two appetizers and one entree when I was finally seated. No, three appetizers actually, as the waitress went into a rambling speech of how extraordinary their fries were. I rarely eat fries, but her enthusiasm amused me, and I decided to give it a try. -- Yes, I ordered a lot, and that's usually what people do when they are really hungry and tired. If you are on a weight losing program, starvation and stress are your enemies. Keep that in mind!

I have to say, their garlic fries were awesome! If you crave fries, get high quality ones like these. They were made of real potatoes, cut into skinny sticks, flavored with aromatic garlic and herbs, and cooked to perfection -- crispy and tender. Hands down the best fries I've ever had.

Octopus was also a perfect Asian fusion appetizer. Octopus slices were juicy and tender. The black bean sauce with ginger and scallion was definitely taken from a page of Asian cooking book, but the presentation and the texture demonstrated technique and thoughts usually came from western fine dining.

Pork belly surprised me by its texture and flavor. Typical Asian take on pork belly, as you see in most Chinese and Japanese restaurants, is usually on the tender and juicy side. Ruxbin has decided to go dry instead. The outside of the pork belly were probably seared or grilled. The meat was crispy outside, firm but not overly chewy inside. The meat itself also seemed leaner than what I usually have. Different, but still very good. The citrus flavor was very refreshing on a hot summer evening, another deviation from traditional hearty Asian treatment with pork belly.  

Lamb saddle and belly was also very tender and flavorful. It melted in my mouth. I was just too full by the time it arrived to fully appreciate it.

From my one and only dining experience in Ruxbin, I was more impressed by its appetizers than entree. But it may be because I started too hungry and ordered too much.

This is a BYO place. Ruxbin does not sell alcohol and charges $6 to open your bottle. I had their passionfruit basil soda instead. It was very refreshing and had just the right amount of sweetness. Delightful.

Did I say I loved loved loved the decor and ambiance??? This place was just charming!!!

It was an outstanding dining experience in Ruxbin. I came in with depression, and left in high spirit. The food, the ambiance, and the service was absolutely therapeutical. I will be back.

Address: 851 N Ashland Ave, Chicago, IL 60642
Telephone: 312 624 8509

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Pre-fall Colors and My Poshmark

We had a couple of cool days here in the city, and I was consequently drawn to rusty colors. New outfit, old pieces. :)

Despite my ongoing effort of dumping things to Goodwill, my closet is once again exploding. So I registered on Poshmark last night and decided to put some excellent/good condition pre-loved items on the market. My username is "zisu" and has just uploaded one Rebecca Minkoff MAB this morning. More items will come. Please follow me. I will also start a thread on mitbbs once I have collected the items. Keep posted. :)


Tee: JCrew Perfect Fit Tee
Skirt: HD in Paris, from Anthropologie
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength
Necklace: Anthropologie
Pumps: Nicholas Kirkwood

And here is the MAB for sale...

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Gem Over the Shoulder

I'm absolutely in love with this Rebecca Minkoff MAB mini tote. Yes, it may appear a Celine-wannabe, but its textured saffiano leather and magnificent hot red color simply make it hard to pass. Being dressed up or down, it is indeed a little gem swung over the shoulder. Don't get fooled by its petite size at the first glance. It easily holds all my everyday essentials: compact wallet (this size), key wallet, cell phone, compact camera, sunglasses, lipstick and compact mirror. It's a lot more functional than the cool-looking RM Craig camera bag and many other more expensive cute mini bags, including the white-hot Chanel Le Boy medium.

MAB totes, mini or medium, are spotted quite often nowadays in NYC. Loyal RM fans may miss those signature slouchy bags in buttery soft leather, but MAB tote, Hudson Moto, Amorous satchel and other recent saffiano leather bags have signaled RM's march into the more structured styles that dominate the handbag trend these years. For me, a nice bag is a nice bag; branding is secondary. I own several RM classics (MAB, MAM, MAC, MAC mini), but it doesn't prevent me from embracing the new structured styles.

The dress is from Ralph Lauren's discontinued line Rugby. It left me with a void that I seem unable to fill. If you know any other brands that make you feel so British preppy, please let me know!


Dress: Rugby
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength
Purse: Rebecca Minkoff MAB Tote Mini in hot red
Sandals:  Birkenstock Curacao by Birki in black stretch cork

Monday, July 28, 2014

Walking in the Green

Summer is an interesting season. The city is packed with tourists from all over the world while the local residents all rush to the countryside or the beach to escape the hustle-bustle of city life. Nothing is more therapeutic than a walk in the woods or a splash in the ocean.

In recent years, my weekend outfits have grown more and more relaxed. Madewell oversized tee is one of my must-haves for the summer. This basic linen timeoff tee, in particular, has a really nice drape and feels super cool on hot summer days. I have it in multiple colors.

Here I paired the oversized tee with a midi skirt from ASOS. It's made of a drapery fabric that's soft to the touch. The baby pink color is slightly more pinkish than shown on the website -- and I like that. My pictures have done a better job in capturing the color in different lighting.

Click for large pictures. 

Tee: Madewell Linen Timeoff Tee in heather grey
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength
Necklace: Stellar McCartney
Purse: Rebecca Minkoff MAB Tote Mini in Hot Red
Sandals: Birkenstock Curacao by Birki in black stretch cork

Here is the closeup of my Stellar McCartney necklace. I bought it in Italy two years ago, and it has become one of my favorite pieces of fashion jewelry. And yes, you may play with the golden ball and make it spin. :)


Friday, July 25, 2014

TGIF: Heading Out of the City!

I'm dying from this busy week! I need a weekend trip as much as fish needs water. The ambitious may live to work; I work to live. Maybe that's why I will end up being a mediocre. But, if it's a happy mediocre, be it! :)

Have a good weekend, everyone! Don't let the summer slip through your fingers...


Maxi dress: C&C California (current season)
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength
Purse: Rebecca Minkoff mini MAC
Sandals: Birkenstock Curacao by Birki in black stretch cork
Necklace: Stellar McCartney

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Foodie Chat (9): Petrossian

NYC Summer Restaurant Week is back. Restaurant week is always a good chance to try out new places. Although you may not get the best dishes from the restaurant, you do get a sense of its general style and flavor. When you return to the same restaurant for their restaurant week specials, it may be a sign that you've been in the city for too long. This is exactly what happened to us this week. My BFF and I returned to Petrossian for their $38 restaurant week dinner menu, the same $48 prix fixe dinner menu they offer throughout the year.

Caviar is the staple here. So we both ordered the Transmontanus USA Farmed Caviar for $12 extra. The caviar came in a tiny tin with a piece of fluffy blini and crème frâiche. The natural sweetness of the blini, the smoothness of the creme blended exquisitely with the caviar. It tasted neither too salty nor overly fishy.

For the entree, my BFF originally wanted to order the steak. I persuaded her to have the Sturgeon ($8 extra) instead. Often referred to as "primitive fishes", sturgeon (鲟) is one of the oldest species among all fishes. Their morphological characters, such as elongated bodies and lack of scales, have remained relatively unchanged since the earliest fossil record. Sturgeons are also harvested for their roe. Because they are slow-growing and mature very late in life, most species of sturgeons are currently at the edge of extinction. You may call me environmentally irresponsible, but my philosophy is: if we kill a sturgeon to get its roe and make caviar, it only makes sense that we also eat its flesh. Anyway, if you are like me and curious about sturgeon, Petrossian is one of the few restaurants that serves sturgeon and it knows how to cook it. I had it last time when I visited Petrossian. It had a very distinct texture -- firm, but not overly chewy. My BFF also loved it.

I ordered Mackerel for a change. The presentation was impeccable (shown in the picture). A piece of grilled fish sat on top of tender mushrooms and baby spinach. Scallions and carrot slices added more springy colors to the plate. The fish was tender and delicate, the sauce was light and flavorful, and the sliced ginger had an extra kick that aroused all my taste buds. It was a beautiful course from all aspects.

You may skip the dessert. Nothing to write home about. Do have a sip of espresso though. As a French restaurant, Petrossian respects coffee. Wine is also reasonably priced.

Housed in the historic Alwyn Court Building, Petrossian is lavishly decorated with crystals, bronze sculptures, china, and chandelier, all harmonizing to create an old-school upscale ambiance. However the service was not in par with its food and decor. I had no complaint of our waitress, but a tad of warmth and smile would have made us happier.

Address: 182 West 58th Street, New York, NY
Telephone:  212 245 2214

Monday, July 21, 2014

True Tea Length Skirt

As I mentioned in April's post, tea length hem line is big this season. However, I had a hard time finding a true tea length piece. Longer than a midi and shorter than a maxi, the tea length hem line should hit right above the ankles. Many tea length skirts turn out to be midi skirts, just a bit too short.

Here is an outfit with my best tea length skirt. Guess when and where I got it? I got it eight years ago from Club Monaco's sales shelf at discounted price. Apparently that was not the most trendy piece at that time, but I just fell in love with this retro style and couldn't let it go. The flared silhouette, silky satin texture, and luxurious plum color makes every girl feel like a lady ... from last century. What do you think? Does it look outdated or not?

Click for large pictures.

Top: Anthropologie
Skirt: Club Monaco
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength
Sandals: Pedro Garcia Xola Ankle Strap Sandals in almond/white

Friday, July 18, 2014

Foodie Chat (8): Bamiyan

Sure, Turkish food sounds exotic, but have you tried Afghani?

Bamiyan is one of those offbeat and reasonably priced dining choices in Murray Hill that serves Afghani cuisine. Afghanistan’s cooking tends to be light on spice and shares a lot with Turkish and Greek cuisine. However Bamiyan will never get confused with Turkish Kitchen which is only steps away. Some people will love the low-to-the-ground tables at the front covered in tapestries and embroidered pillows that smack of authenticity, and some will love that the owners here, in contrast to almost everywhere else, actually want you to take your shoes off. New York offers plenty of options for authentic ethical cuisine, but Bamiyan is among the oldest and best when it comes to Afghani food.

People all over the world make dumplings in their own way. Chinese dumplings are all about the fillings and use very simple dipping sauce, while Afghani dumplings are the opposite. Scallion Dumplings with Minced Beef Sauce Topped with Minced Garlic Yogurt Sauce are simply delicious, with its hearty and creamy minced beef sauce. The filling is almost bland and the crystal wrap seems to be made of rice rather than wheat.

Another appetizer we tried is Bamiyan Special Yogurt Dip with chopped shallots, cucumbers & garlic topped with olive oil, mint, cranberries & crushed walnuts. Sounds like a mouthful? And the plate actually has dip in three flavors. Most likely that you will like at least one. For me, the only one I was not crazy about was the cranberries dip, and that was mostly due to my peculiar taste against sweeties. The other two dips, however, were divine.
Being one of the icons of Mid East cuisine, Lamb Stew with Sweet Rice is always a safe bet in Bamiyan. Hearty but not overly heavy, it is loaded with all the spice and flavor you would anticipate in lamb stew. This is especially comfortable on a snowy winter evening.
If you are not in the mood for red meat, Chicken Stew with Brown Rice may be an option. The sauce is light but flavorful. Chicken, however, is not as tender as you may wish, which is normal for any chicken breast stew. And the brown rice is essentially "browned" (or stir-fried) rice, not the whole grain some health conscious low-carb diners may take at its face value.

The staff are unfailingly polite and usually you can walk in without reservation. If you don't like taking off your shoes or sitting at the low tables at the window, you can always find a spot in the spacious dining room with regular tables covered in white table cloths. Last but not the least, it has hookah in their lounge area which is a real mystery to me.

Address: 358 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10016
Telephone: 212 481 3232

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Go Sailing

The nautical trend always has its cache on hot summer days, and you don't have to go to Hamptons to sport this crisp style. The nautical look is synonymous with European sophistication and its elements will always work with denim, making a casual outfit look elegant. Accentuate your outfit with sailor stripes, anchors, sailing boats, or even polka dots. Or, just like me, once in a while, get loaded with nautical pieces -- trust me: it will make your day in front of the computer goes faster. :)

The top and pants are both from JCrew. This brand tends to carry neat nautical pieces every summer, and their sale prices are just irresistible. These pants are actually from Crewcuts girl's collection -- yet another reason to stay slim? haha! Mine is size 14, and I had the waist taken in a little bit for a better fit. As I checked the item last night, it is NOT final sale and has an extra 40% off with code HOTOUT. Golden opportunity to order a couple of big sizes and try them out if you are interested.

To avoid a matchy-matchy look, I also threw in a tribal necklace bought from Anthropologie quite a while ago. "Nautical and tribal?" You may ask. Well... sail to Africa! That makes perfect sense to me... :)


Top: JCrew Bateau Tee in Stripe in ivory/navy
Pants: Crewcuts Girl's Cafe Capri in Sailboat Print (extra 40% off with code HOTOUT)
Necklace: Anthropologie
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength
Shoes: Cole Haan Air Carma Open Toe Pump in black patent leather



Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Maxi Dress with an Oriental Touch

Dreadful weather in NYC these days. Maybe it's the perfect time to dig into my old pictures. :)

This is one of my favorite maxi dresses. The slim and long fit reminds me of Cheongsam (or qipao) from those good old days when China managed to incorporate western body-hugging silhouette into our traditional modest yet elegant fashion style. The muted grey color (with bright yellow trim) and the cotton fabric also resonate with my Chinese heritage deeply. And, guess what? I bought this dress from an American brand in an American online store! That left me wondering what OUR designers had been doing... We all know that there is a 唐装/汉服 movement in China, which encourages us to go back to our traditional attires. So far it seems more focused on special occasion (e.g. wedding, graduation ceremony) attires. I see its future as bright as the kilt. Let's face it: fashion evolves. Our fashion heritage can only survive and thrive if it adapts to modern life style. I'd be more than proud to wear a Cheongsam in my everyday life as long as it is both comfortable and fashionable. 
Click for large picture (taken in 2012).

Dress: Monrow (current season)
Sunglasses: Tom Ford
Flip flops: Havaianas 

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Classic Denim Shirt

Lighter than a jacket and thicker than most cotton shirts, a soft denim shirt is always handy in summer mornings and evenings when you, in that cute sleeveless dress or tank top, cannot help rubbing your shoulders. So I got this denim shirt from JCrew in May, and it has already gone quite some mileage. The color goes with almost everything, and the fabric is soft to the touch. I believe it will be one of the staples that stay in my wardrobe for many many seasons.

Today JCrew has a sale: 40% off hot-weather styles and extra 40% off final sale styles. Code: HOTOUT. And, this shirt is included!

Click for large pictures.

Denim shirt: JCrew Denim Western Shirt in Pale Indigo
Silk Dress: Madewell
Skinny belt: JCrew
Sandals: Birkenstock Curacao by Birki in black stretch cork

Monday, July 14, 2014

Summer Color Splash

Fashion police may tell you: No more than three colors in an outfit unless you are five years old or younger.

Rules are meant to be broken.

And summer is the time to break one or two just for fun... :)

I've been eyeing this pair of JCrew shorts in Gemstone print for a while. Finally it went on sale and I immediately snatched one. The original fit sits quite loose in the waist (size 00). So I had to take it to a tailor first. No complaints other than that. The material is substantial and comfortable, the fit around the hips is preppy and modest, and the pattern is simply fun!

It could be the center piece of a modest preppy outfit if paired with white, gray, blue, nude/blush/peach or denim tops. But this time I decided to go a bit crazy and throw in a neon yellow slouchy tee, a bright green purse, and a royal blue baseball cap with yellow embroidered crest. The outfit doesn't look too bad, right?

Click for large pictures.
 

Slouchy tee: Free People in neon yellow
Crossbody bag: Rebecca Minkoff mini MAC 
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength
Sandals:  Birkenstock Curacao by Birki in black stretch cork
Necklace: Stellar McCartney

Friday, July 11, 2014

Ex Boyfriend?

We all know the so-called "boyfriend shirts" or "boyfriend jeans". These oversized pieces usually create a slouchy laid-back look. Now Madewell offers "ex boyfriend shirts", and I got one out of curiosity. Honestly I didn't see much difference between boyfriend and ex-boyfriend. This is also an oversized shirt. Anyway I like its color and soft material. Also, this shirt does not have the usual peek-a-boo problem in the chest area, which is a big plus for me... :)

Have a good weekend!

Embellished tank top: JCrew
Plaid shirt: Madewell Ex-boyfriend Shirt in persimmon plaid (also available in porch plaid and indigo weave)
Shorts: Abercrombie & Fitch
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength in black
Sandals: Birkenstock Curacao by Birki in black stretch cork (also available in rainbow stripes)
Purse: Louis Vuitton Damier Hampstead PM

Thursday, July 10, 2014

Zisu's Kitchen (2): Dill, Fennel and 茴香

我是南方人,但是爱吃饺子,尤其爱吃荠菜和茴香这两种馅儿的。很不幸的是,这俩在北美都不容易买到。也许Flushing会有,但是我在纽约的唐人街只见过冰冻的荠菜,从来没有见过新鲜的。而茴香呢,说实话我只吃过包好的饺子,没见过茴香整棵的长啥模样,-- 这东西似乎中国北方才有,南方可能少见?-- 就更不知道它的英文名字是什么了。

究竟什么是茴香?有人说是dill,有人说是fennel。我放狗查了查,似乎美国人也很糊涂,网上一堆文章解释这俩的区别。简单的说,dill 根 fennel 是亲戚,fennel的味道更接近八角。这个听起来靠谱哦,因为我那久远的记忆中,茴香饺子似乎有点类似八角的味道。可是,超市里的fennel挺着大肚子却没有两根叶子,活像剪了短发的孕妇,怎么看怎么让人心里打鼓。所以,我的第一个尝试,是dill。

我之所以选择dill,是因为网上看见爱做饭的美女发贴说dill就是茴香。美女是个大贤妻,勤快,实诚,北方人,善面食,应该不会错吧!我以前经常用dill做鱼,看它那绿葱葱的样子,也跟饺子里的绿须须有几分相似。饺子做出来了,味道是很不错的,跟记忆中的味道有些相似又有些不同,大抵是我的记忆出故障了吧,我想。超市里卖的dill差不多都这个样子:

不过,网上也有人说fennel才是茴香。上哪儿找叶子多的fennel呢?我这个吃货就这么想念着惦记着,糊里糊涂就过了几个月。这天我正在farmer's market闲逛,突然看见一堆绿葱葱的须须,上面挂着斗大的字"baby fennel"。矮马,这东西长得跟dill真像!除了根茎有个小拇指粗细的突起以外。难怪老美分不清这俩!我激动的买了一大把,回家包饺子去也!看看,baby fennel长这样儿,肚子还没有大起来,跟超市里卖的孕妇模样是不是不同?



相比dill,fennel的确味道更接近八角,口感上比dill要硬,这两点上面都更接近我记忆中的茴香。但是不知道为什么,不管是dill还是fennel,味道都比以前吃的茴香饺子要淡些。也许是因为这些叶子是在比较嫩的时候就被拿出来卖了吧?以前吃的茴香纤维更粗,口感更干涩,不如fennel或者dill嫩。植物的叶子长老了,估计就会变干变老,味道也会更重吧!

经过对比,我觉得,这俩对爱吃茴香的同学来说都能解馋,fennel叶子比dill更像,但是不容易买到,那么用dill也差不多了。不管是哪种,包饺子的时候都要多放些叶子,不然味道会很淡。除了猪肉,馅儿里放点新鲜大虾也挺好的,西餐里面经常用这俩(尤其是dill)配鱼虾,味道非常相得益彰。

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Hippie or Preppy?

Dude, Brazil's catastrophic defeat in the semi-final left me with a blank brain. I'm still trying to recover from the concussion... So this is gonna be a super short post.

OK -- an outfit over the long weekend. I was trying to include this Birkenstock in my casual playbook. I think those hippie babies make the look less preppy and more relaxed. Somehow I like the way these two styles blend... What do you think?

Top: Peter Pilotto for Target (also seen in this outfit)
Denim shorts: Abercrombie & Fitch
Sunglasses: Miu Miu Cat Eye (also seen in this postnew with cute embellishment, more colors, summer glitters)
Purse: Chanel Le Boy
Sandals:  Birkenstock Curacao by Birki in black stretch cork (also available in rainbow stripes)


Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Vienna, Prague and Budapest (5): Prague

布拉格的游记一直拖着没写,看世界杯是一个原因,不好写也是一个原因。这个地方给我的印象非常两极。

到达布拉格的时候是星期五下午,阴天。放下行李,拉开窗帘,National Museum就在马路对面,古朴建筑衬着满天的阴云,宛如浓墨重彩的油画,让我赞叹不已,心早就迫不及待的飞了出去。

匆匆在街角的小餐馆吃了烤猪排,就赶紧朝广场走去。哦,餐馆虽然小,装饰非常复古;烤猪排虽然不好看,味道却是好极了。从没得吃也没人搭理的维也纳来到热情好客菜肴可口的布拉格,大妈我激动得热泪盈眶。

布拉格根维也纳一样,主要景点非常集中,走过National Museum门口长长的广场,就进入了old town,也就是80%的游客聚集的地方。不知道为什么,我的想象中布拉格的广场上应该满是鸽子,而且应该有街头艺人拉手风琴 -- 也许是莫名其妙的stereotype,也许是蔡依林的“布拉格广场”的MTV里面有很多鸽子。总之,我哆哆嗦嗦的裹紧了唯一的小毛衣,哼着“布拉格广场”的小调,脑海里盘旋着手风琴的旋律,满怀希望的看鸽子去也~~~

事实上呢,广场上一片鸽子毛都没有看见!广场两边都是酒店和餐馆,倒是满好看的。还看见一个有趣的露天cafe,装饰成tram的样子,可惜天气太冷,没有什么生意。

我纳闷的想:也许old town里面的小广场上面有鸽子吧?于是继续超前走。。。越走人越多,穿过old town弯弯曲曲的小路,很快就到了中心的小广场。矮马,这个地方乌泱乌泱的全是人!别说看不到鸽子,就算有鸽子也得落脚在游客的头顶上吧!表演的艺人也是有的,无非是些抡火把的杂耍之类,让我大为失望,顿时觉得这个城市不如想象中那么浪漫和有文化。难道大妈我车马劳顿过来就是来看冻得瑟瑟发抖的游客和不入流的杂耍的吗?

逛着逛着天色已晚,我又冷得发抖,于是找了个当地的餐馆吃饭喝酒,还有live music,心情终于好了些。从餐馆出来,懒得走路了,在门口打了辆车。坑爹的司机凶巴巴的不打表,三五分钟的路程讹了我们300块钱(合大约11-12欧元),我们实在又冷又累,懒得计较,但是好心情又被打消了一半。

第二天早晨起来一看,哗!天晴了!空气虽然还是清冷,毕竟有了春光明媚的感觉,还是让人无比欣喜的。我们订了一个city tour,跟着导游开始了忙碌的一天。

Old town依旧人山人海,小广场上的艺人倒是显得有文化了一些,虽然还是找不到手风琴和鸽子。

古时候,欧洲的很多城市的中心都是围绕教堂建立起来的,先有了教堂有了教徒,于是有人在教堂外面摆地摊做生意,于是就有了集市有了城管有了商业中心。布拉格则相反,这里先有了集市有了城管,然后才有的教堂。这个游人如织的小广场,古时候就是个练摊儿的所在。而下图中这个 old town hall 原本就是城管的办公楼。

城管楼的侧面,有个著名的大钟,叫Astronomical Clock,巨大巨复杂,同时显示3种时间。我笨,导游解释了怎么看时间,我左看右看也没看明白。我一直不喜欢那种大表盘里套小表盘的复杂的手表,就是因为指针多了就超过我的脑容量了,1个圆圈加3根指针就正好。。。大钟顶上还有两个小窗口,整点的时候会打开,有两个小木偶出来跟大家搔首弄姿。所以,每到快整点的时候,钟楼底下就站满了人,个个都仰着脖子,好像集体流鼻血了一般。等到整点钟声敲响,小人跳出来晃荡晃荡,然后窗口又关上,大家就一起哄笑,然后心满意足的散开。布拉格人民对这个大钟是很在意的。有多在意呢?大钟做成以后,他们太爱这个钟了,害怕这个伟大的钟表匠会在别的城市制造同样精妙的大钟,于是他们就把这个人的眼睛弄瞎了。。。怀璧之罪,古今中外概莫能外。

城管楼的对面,就是Church of Our Lady,布拉格标志建筑之一,哥特式建筑风格,里面的装饰则是很华丽的巴洛克。欧洲的大庙永远都是好看的,基督教动不动就花几百年来修一座庙,不仅外表高大雄伟,室内装饰也极尽华丽,就是为了给教众“天堂”的感觉,让教众身在其中不觉就心驰神往,相信自己虔诚修行就能进入天堂。我看过梵蒂冈的超豪华大庙以后,再看庙就难免有“五岳归来不看山”的感觉了。要说最对我的审美口味的,则是巴塞罗那那个还没有修好的大庙,Gaudi主持设计的。布拉格这个庙,外观倒是挺特别的。

出了old town,步行可以去Jewish Quarter。这里曾经是犹太人的聚集地,二战的时候捷克的犹太人基本上被杀光了,逃出去的犹太人也不再回来了,所以现在这里除了一个墓地,已经没有太多犹太人的痕迹了,不过据说是布拉格地价最高的地段之一。。。还有别的,就不知道了,因为游人太多,我们走着走着就跟导游走散了,虽然后来又找到了导游,这一片的好多故事都没有听到,哈哈!上个街景吧,还是挺美好的~

布拉格有一堵墙叫John Lennon Wall,是80年代以后被布拉格人民一点点画出来的,上面有很多Lennon画像和Beatles歌词,以表达对自由的向往和对共产主义高压的不满。据说苏联一度打算把这堵墙给粉白了。

Prague Castle是捷克最大的城堡,现在是总统府,买票也是可以进去看的。我们在外面兜了一圈,被可以媲美时代广场的人山人海吓尿了,看了一次哨兵换岗就撤了。说实话,这个换岗的阵势也忒小了点,跟英国完全不能比。我们去的时候,Castle外墙正在装修,也不好拍照。

还走了一趟著名的Charles bridge,Saints的铜像很有威严,可惜游客摩肩接踵,实在让人心烦。还不如从河上看得舒服。

这天真的是走哪儿都是人,最舒服的莫过于坐船游河,终于能清静一点,真正能欣赏到布拉格的古朴静谧之美。

为什么布拉格游人这么多呢?我们特地挑的是五六月之间,应该还不是旅游旺季呢。我们问了问导游,才知道是因为我们正好赶上了周末。布拉格是欧洲的旅游重镇,每年4月到11月都是旅游季,尤其是周末。欧洲很小,很多人周末就开车或者坐飞机出国旅游,德国人英国人尤其喜欢到布拉格来玩。每个周五周六,基本上布拉格就是满地的人。等到周日,游人陆陆续续的离开了,景点就会清静许多。所以,你如果打算好好欣赏布拉格,就尽量错过周末的高峰。

我们星期天的安排是去Krumlov,不过的确如导游所说,人群呼拉一下子就不见了,到处都是空的。前面贴的那张照片就是星期天在old town square照的。

捷克菜主要是肉食,味道还是很不错的,跟中国菜有相通之处。如果你吃肉吃捷克菜吃腻了,街上还有很多泰国餐馆(和泰式按摩)。据说捷克人以前也是出国限制很严的,脱离苏联控制以后,很多年轻人跑到泰国去旅游,回来以后就搞了不少泰国餐馆和按摩店。上几个捷克本地菜:熏牛舌,醸辣椒(里面塞的是猪肉),彩椒乳酪焖牛肉。当然了,还有捷克本地的啤酒Pilsner。无论是捷克还是匈牙利,喝啤酒都比喝可乐喝水还要便宜,都是大概1-1.5欧元一大杯的样子。为了省钱,我,就只好勉为其难。。。半推半就。。。顺水推舟。。。推波助澜。。。地多喝了三五杯。。。哈哈哈!

布拉格,这次玩得不尽兴,下次找机会再去~~~