Soft and Splendid

Splendid is another brand that fits into my casual weekend wardrobe perfectly: soft, comfortable, effortless, and affordable. This maxi tank dress I bought last summer is exactly how I define summer casual chic. When the temperature hits the higher 80's, I want nothing but a simple dress that wicks my sweat away. The tank top cuts a little too low for me, so I usually wear a sports bra that adds a little pop to the palette as well as minimizes the visual effect of chest. Sometimes the secret of looking sexy is a right dose of being conservative. Hope we all have a splendid weekend ahead!

Click for large picture.

Maxi dress: Splendid (similar in grey/white, similar in poppy print, short dress, jumpsuit, long sleeved maxi, similar in other brands: #1, #2, #3 )

Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength

Sports bra: GapFit Racerback Pullover Bra

Sandals: Pedro Garcia Xola Ankle Strap Sandals in almond/white (also available in high heels) 

Purse: Louis Vuitton

What's Wrong with Suarez?

Suarez 咬人以后，得了个美名：苏牙。又是禁赛又是罚款，有人觉得奇怪了：咬人就那么点小皮肉伤，比踢断腿要轻微多了，为什么处罚那么重？究竟苏牙的问题在哪里？

撇开唾液传染疾病不说，苏牙的行为之所以惊世骇俗，在于违背了人类对成年人的行为规范，表现出不能控制自身情绪的暴力倾向，如果人人如此放任情绪恣意宣泄，那么球场就有变成斗殴场的可能性，你咬我一口，我扇你一耳光，神马FIFA神马La Liga都不用搞了。

动物咬得死去活来的，那是自然现象。人之所以成为人，并（自以为）比动物高级，就是因为人有更规范的道德和行为准则。小baby咬人，是动物性的表现，可是负责任的父母都会说no，时间长了，小baby也不咬人了，人的社会性慢慢占了上风。成年人一般情况下是不咬人的，除非生死关头，才会又抓又咬又踢，把自然给予的所有武器都用上来。小两口吵架了，太太生气了咬先生一口，那是可以算家暴的，也是不允许的。在球场上，如果球员不高兴了就骂人打架甚至张嘴就咬，一点职业素养都没有，谁还乐意踢球呢？

苏牙挑战的，就是人类的基本道德准则和体育的基本文明要求，所以他被重罚一点也不冤枉。踢断腿伤害的是一个球员，而球场暴力则可能伤害整个足球事业。

不要小看了情绪控制的重要性。长期的情绪指控和缺乏自我调节能力，后果可能是很危险的。前一阵子不是有个Hunger Game的副导演的儿子胡乱杀了人么？他就是长期自卑加自傲的心理变态。天下那么多找不到girlfriend的少年，撸着撸着也长大了，不会压抑到去杀人的地步。苏牙也许该看看心理医生了，在他学会控制情绪以前，建议上个＂嚼头＂。这么好的射手，不踢球真是可惜了。

这届世界杯，原本是打算当偶像剧看的，可惜西班牙意大利的帅哥们都走了，帅罗也回家了。苏牙这么一口，世界杯变成了轻喜剧。现在苏牙也走了，大妈就跟着美国队看爱国主义大片好了。估计等到美国队也撤了，才能静下心来好好看球吧！话说美国队的剧本还真是惊悚，对葡萄牙对德国都差点把大妈看出心脏病来，不晓得后面还有几集呢？

Retro and Relaxed

Top a midi skirt with a relaxed tee, and you will get an ultra retro and relaxed outfit. Here I paired a gray pleated cotton midi skirt with a dotted black and white relaxed tee. I usually pair a fitted top with a flare skirt, or a loose top with a skinny bottom. But I found this combo both comfortable and confident, although slightly out of my comfort zone at the first thought. Well, we all need to step out and experiment new territory occasionally, right?

BTW I think I need a pair of Birkenstock to complete this retro casual look. What do you think?

Click for large pictures.

Top: t.la from Anthropologie
Skirt: JCrew
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength
Wedges: Salvatore Ferragamo

Vienna, Prague and Budapest (4): Cesky Krumlov

捷克是欧洲人特别喜欢的旅游地点之一，不光是因为当地物价相对低廉，而且捷克的古建筑保持得相当好。捷克人很有自知之明，知道自己就是做大国跟班儿的命，所以历史上总是找大腿抱，被打脸了也不积极反抗。捷克人的外语课也随着大腿不断变迁，历史上是德语主导，后来跟着苏联说俄语，现在学英语的人越来越多。识时务者为俊杰，凭着这样的处世哲学，捷克悄么声儿的在一战后诞生了，悄么声儿的实现了工业化，悄么声儿的躲过了二战的绝大多数战火，又悄没声儿的成长为发达国家 -- 华约组织里的第一个。

Cesky Krumlov就是南波希米亚地区著名的古城，旺季的游客人数比当地居民还多。从地理上讲，Krumlov在捷克南部，距离维也纳仅仅一两个小时的车程，距离布拉格则有两三个小时。我们懒得拖着行李到处跑，所以一口气从维也纳坐到了布拉格，安顿以后再从布拉格跟了个参观Krumlov的团，回头做了个day trip。虽然Krumlov名气很大，其实是个特别袖珍的小镇，主要景点是一个castle和一个old town square，一天足够了。

Krumlov的美丽，不可名状，已经完全超出了我的语言范围。从castle的城墙往下看，小镇静静的躺在一弯小河的怀抱里，层层叠叠的红顶小屋衬着蓝天白云绿树碧草，宛如童话世界，时间似乎都因它的美丽而震惊，忘记了自己的脚步。在这里，不用神马高级相机，哪怕是小小手机，你都能拍出明信片一般的美丽画面，连后期都是多余的。

我们走在小镇弯弯曲曲迷宫一般的小路上，步步美景，恍如梦境。

小桥流水，自然少不了街头音乐表演。这位蜀黍用的是神马乐器？象一口大锅，击打不同的部位发出悦耳的叮叮咚咚，连装钱的家伙也象一口锅，是要诉说自己曾经也是一口帅锅咩？

Old town square附近有一个教堂，我实在看庙看腻味了，没有进去，街边的餐馆酒吧咖啡屋倒是非常可爱。照着暖暖的阳光，喝着当地产的啤酒，真想让时间静止。

我们在这里吃了非常捷克的一个菜：pork knee。很象咱们的红烧圆蹄，不过比咱们的还大一号，因为包括膝关节的上下两截儿。盛在巨大的盘子里，用比牛排刀大两号的刀割着吃，让我想起吃生髭肩的樊哙。肉非常入味，去捷克的同学们不要错过了。可惜我吃得太激动，等到满盘狼籍的时候才想起来忘记了拍照！

吃饱喝足，参观著名的Krumlov Castle。这个castle内部有导游，不能拍照，但是在小镇里走走，她却高高在上无处不在。

Krumlov Castle是捷克的第二大古堡，可以追溯到1240年，见证了Rosenburg家族的兴衰。Rosenburg根Habsburg渊源极深，不少Habsburg的皇室加冕仪式是由Rozenburg来做的，维也纳的皇帝经常宣Rosenburg重臣进京议事。这俩地方虽然现在属于不同的国家，地理上却是很近的。Castle里可以看到一辆黄金打造的马车，可见当时这一名门望族是何等的风光富贵。可惜，这个家族根它的好基友一样，男丁们后来都生不出孩子，这一脉遂终于这个古堡。古堡里可以看到Rosenburg家族的最后两个男人的画像。哥哥乃皇帝的心腹重臣，娶的前两个老婆都命薄，没多久就死了，跟白鹿原似的，后来娶的第三个老婆倒是活得比他长，可惜没有生育。这个寡妇后来改嫁，根第二任老公生了孩子，可见是男人的小蝌蚪不中用。弟弟呢，则是个学富五车周游四海的高富帅，乱花从中迷了眼，到了50岁才娶了个15岁的小姑娘。可是这小姑娘没多久就精神失常了，老男人就像父亲一样的照顾了她 一辈子，也没有子嗣，宣告了这个在南波希米亚称霸300多年的贵族的灭亡。Rosenburg自然消失以后，这个城堡就给了von Eggenberg家族，后来当地啤酒就用Eggenberg当品牌。Castle里面还有个巴洛克式的剧场，壁画很有意思，描绘了家族里的许多人的神情和关系，色彩明快，笔法简洁得近乎脸谱化，很有喜剧感。

Cesky Krumlov是这次旅途上看到的最美丽的风景。如果你有机会去中欧，这个地方是不能错过的。Castle必须有导游才能进入，每个房间只能有一个团参观，不允许多个团同时观赏，所以建议大家在去之前找到自己的语种导游，预约好参观时间。

LBD with a Tribal Touch

Finally I've got the chance of wearing this lovely LBD from Anthropologie! Here is my review from last week: " Color Pop Embroidered Tunic dress by Chloe Oliver in XSP from Anthropologie. I bought it a while ago at full price and took it with me to Central Europe. Unfortunately the weather was too cold and I had no chance of wearing it. It's very breezy and comfortable. The beaded panels on the side are fabulous. Now it's on sale! Note: Its lining is tight on the chest. Size up if you are busty. I wear the smallest size in almost all brands, but the XXSP one did not fit me. I could put it on, and it looked OK in the mirror, but I could barely breathe."

LBD is classic, and the beaded panels add some tribal touch to the design and update it to modern chic. I'm absolutely in love with this little cutie. And you know what? I just noticed that Anthropologie had cut it to $59.95! Yeah, it made me sweat... LOL!

Click for large pictures.

Dress:  Color Pop Embroidered Tunic dress by Chloe Oliver from Anthropologie
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength
Purse: Chanel
Wedge: Pierre Hardy

Safari Breeze

I see Madewell as one of those under presented brands in Chinese community. Its casual chic style is effortless and relaxed. Besides those wardrobe basics, I like Madewell silk dresses. They may not catch your eyes on the hanger or on the website (Madewell online pictures do no justice to these pieces), but they look nice when you put them on. The silk material is usually of high quality for its price. And, just like JCrew, this brand goes on sale from time to time. You may not get huge discount as good items do not stay long on the shelf, but I find discounted prices are usually quite reasonable.

This is one of the silk dresses I got from Madewell last summer. I was very much attracted to its cool safari sketch print and breezy silk chiffon material. I've got lots of compliments every time I wear it. I even wear it in office with a white blazer or cardigan. It's one of the most comfortable summer dresses in my closet.

BTW Madewell has a two day sale now - 25% off on selected summer items with code HIGHFIVE.

Click for large pictures.

Silk dress: Madewell
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength
Necklace: Wide Link Choker from Anthropologie (layered in this outfit)
Belt: Club Monaco
Sandals: Marc Jacobs

Pastel Silk

92F in NYC today... phew! Pastel colors and breezy silk seem especially enticing in summer heat wave. And it has been a while since I posted an outfit in analogous colors last time. So here comes today's look built with all old pieces: dusty rose silk top, pastel pink silk midi skirt with watercolor floral prints, and hot pink belt. Don't you like the oriental touch in the floral prints? It reminds me of the abstract paintings from ancient China. I got it many years ago from Banana Republic -- absolutely love at first sight! Apparently my religious fitness routine has paid off -- now I cannot wear this skirt without a belt...The outfit looks quite 80's, and that's exactly what I'm aiming for. Stay cool!

Click for large pictures.

Dusty rose silk top: JCrew
Silk midi skirt in watercolor prints: Banana Republic
Fuchsia leather belt: JCrew
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength  
Sandals: Pedro Garcia Xola Ankle Strap Sandals in almond/white (also available in high heels)

DVF Selene Ruched Silk Jersey Dress

Yet another DVF dress. Compared to the New Della dress seen in my previous post, Selene has a looser fit around the waist -- New Della has a tie at the side and you can achieve a more fitted look by adjusting the tie. However, Selene still fits well and makes a perfect shift dress that is low-key, professional and feminine. The silk jersey is stretchy and comfortable as usual. Here I picked the more conservative color "Jungle Diamond" for office. It goes really well with a black blazer and a pair of bronze heels.

Dress: DVF Selene Ruched Silk Jersey Dress in Jungle Diamond
Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength
Pumps: Stuart Weitzman

Vienna, Prague and Budapest (3): Budapest

从地理上看，布达佩斯根武汉很像。武汉原本是三个城市，武昌 汉口和一个不为人知的汉阳，长江把武昌汉口分开。布达佩斯原本也是三个城市，多瑙河两岸分别是Buda和Pest，另外还有一个不出名的Obuda，Buda多山，是旧皇宫的所在，Pest是平地，拥有国会大厦和不少相对现代的建筑。

多瑙河比长江可要窄多了，但是对古人来说也是难以逾越的天堑。一直到有一天，住在Buda皇宫里的皇帝想去Pest奔丧而不得，才一怒之下修建了Chain Bridge，把两岸连接起来，这是Budapest架在多瑙河上的第一座桥梁。后来河上又修建了很多桥梁，为两座城市合并奠定了基础。可惜的是，二战的炮火几乎摧毁了所有的老桥，现在大家看到的都是战后重建的，尽量保持原貌。下图就是Chain Bridge，桥上有大狮子守护，背后则是皇宫。无论是艳阳高照的午后，还是华灯初上的傍晚，桥上桥下风光无限。

站在Chain Bridge上面，Pest一侧是规模盛大的Parliament，Buda一侧是Castle Hill - Mathias Church，两大景点尽收眼底。

Mathias Church也叫Church of Our Lady，是个天主教堂，中世纪的建筑，哥特式风格，屋顶上的马赛克装饰明艳照人。它不光见证过几个国王的加冕和婚礼，更见证了历史上的血雨腥风。土耳其人打进来以后，曾经洗劫教堂里的宝贝，还把这里改作清真寺，把壁画什么的都刷成白色。突然有天某面墙壁坍塌，露出墙壁中藏着的圣母像，顿时把庙里的穆斯林吓得不轻。

紧邻着大庙的，就是Fisherman's Bastion，用来纪念中世纪战争中守卫布达佩斯的渔人。这地方真是游人如织，因为是凭栏远眺的好去处。拾阶而下，Pest的大好风光正在眼前。

Buda一面多山，所以有不少登高远眺的好去处。除了Castle Hills，还有他们自己的Statue of Liberty。不过这个就是前苏联的遗迹了，纪念的是苏联赶走纳粹解放匈牙利。雕塑是一个举着羽毛的女子，从河上或者河对面都能清楚地看到。

虽然匈牙利人现在对这个雕像感情复杂，这里的确是看Elizabeth Bridge的好去处，这个Elizabeth正是前面提到的促成了匈牙利独立的Sisi。

Pest一侧除了Parliament，还有个Hero Square，中间树立着Millennium Monument，是纪念匈牙利成立1000年而建的，算比较新了，意思类似咱的人民英雄纪念碑，虽然要比咱们的老得多。广场和纪念碑都气势恢弘，可惜我的相机不够牛，拍不好全景。

另外还看了Basilica of St. Stephen，是Pest一侧的教堂。欧洲的庙太多了，这个实在没有太多特色。其实看不看都无所谓。

在布达佩斯除了观光，还要体验生活，一定要做的是三件事：

第一是晚上坐船看夜景。灯光亮起，什么都是浪漫的华丽的，别忘了多穿点衣服，船上风大。

第二件是逛Central Market。我有一个习惯，就是无论走到哪里都去当地做grocery shopping，保证每天有新鲜的蔬菜水果。布达佩斯的Central Market实在太棒了！楼下是卖菜卖肉的，看得人眼花缭乱，蔬菜水果都新鲜得好像会蹦会跳一样。而且巨便宜！农业国就是吃的新鲜便宜！

楼上则有很多大排档，一杯home made beer才不到两美元，吃的品种也很多，都是很hearty的农民菜（不好意思，我觉得匈牙利菜都是农民菜，不精致，但是很对味，都是红烧肉扣肉类型的），除了goulash，还有当地的香肠之类的。而我最爱的，就是烤鹅腿。我们吃完了一根，意犹未尽，回去又买了一根。鹅腿烤得又干又香，像南京的盐水鸭。

二楼还有些卖手工艺品的，都不便宜。我觉得与其买这些，还不如买paprika呢，匈牙利的paprika很有名，Central Market一楼很多家都有卖的。小包装，送人或者自己尝尝都不错。

第三件是要去泡澡！布达佩斯是欧洲唯一的有天然温泉的大城市，温泉浴非常普遍。旅游疲乏之际，泡个澡也很解乏。我们去的是著名的Szechenyi thermal bath，室外有三个大池子，室内则有大大小小的各种温度的池子，水不甚清澈，不过天然水本来就是如此了。男女同浴，但是要穿游泳衣，网上说的什么裸浴是没有的事。如果你想在室外中间的大游泳池游泳的话，还必须戴泳帽。

虽然Rick Steve的书中提醒说布达佩斯不少骗子，我们倒是没有碰到。当然了，我们本来就很小心的，听从书本教导，打车都是在酒店叫车，而不是在路上拦车；吃饭也确定明码标价。虽然景点很分散，很多都是战后重建的，但是在这个城市里走走看看非常舒服，一点也不觉得狭小局促。如果在维也纳 布拉格 布达佩斯三个城市中让我选择一个长期居住，我会选择布达佩斯。我非常喜欢这里的慢节奏和低廉物价，有大量的新鲜蔬果和肉食，我应该会吃得很健康也很开心。

It's Soccer Time!

Our Saturday ritual in spring/summer is simple: beer + chicken wings + soccer in our favorite Irish pub across the street. I'm not a soccer fan, but I can happily sit through those Premier League or La Liga games and get amused by the passionate crowd that boos, curses, roars and mocks each other. We live in such a civilized world that sucking in any dose of passion and true emotion benefits one's psychological health. It reminds you that you are alive and surrounded by living beings. 

Tee+shorts is perfect for ladies in a sports bar. No, I don't pretend to be a soccer fan by wearing team jerseys. Neither do I want to look lousy. A relaxed top, dressy shorts, minimalist heels, and edgy accessories always create a laid-back yet put-together look that mixes well in a casual bar. Hope you all enjoy the World Cup in comfort and style. *_^

Click for large images. 

Top: Zoe Karssen Wild Boys jersey top

Shorts: Crewcuts (also seen in this outfit)

Sunglasses: Karen Walker Super Duper Strength

Purse: Chanel

Sandals: Pedro Garcia Xola Ankle Strap Sandals in almond/white (also available in high heels)    

Shopaholic's Report

Here is a quick review of some pieces I tried or purchased recently.

Net-a-porter is running a big sale, and I received two gigantic boxes last night. Fortunately and unfortunately, not everything fits! Here are some of the items I like: 

1 - KARL LAGERFELD April stretch cotton-blend blazer in IT 38. Nice cut. Slim and long. Not the best material, but worth the price. 

2 - KARL LAGERFELD April stretch cotton-blend skinny pants in IT 38. Again, nice cut. Being matching pants of #1, they go virtually with everything.

3 - HELMUT LANG Slit-back stretch-knit dress in XS. I never say no to a LBD that fits perfectly, and I like the subtle sexiness of the slit-back design. It's a perfect from-office-to-dinner dress. Of course, you need a blazer or cardigan in the office. 

4 - MASON BY MICHELLE MASON Leather-paneled stretch-jersey mini dress in XS. Another LBD. Loose, casual and conservative silhouette with some edge from the leather panel. Perfect for office days. The only concern is maintenance. Because the panel is made of super soft lamb skin, you need to take it to professional leather specialist. Your regular dry cleaner may not be able to handle it. 

5 - PREEN LINE Ives stretch-cotton peplum blazer in XS. If you think peplum is out, think again. Classic silhouette comes and goes. Stocking up a well fitted blazer at bargain price always makes sense. With this color, this fit, these details and this price, this blazer is definitely a keeper for me. This blazer fits snug. Size up if you have wide shoulders or a couple of extra pounds around your waist.  

6 - ZOE KARSSEN Wild Boys jersey top in XS. Relaxed fit. Super soft and comfortable.

I can easily make quite a few outfits just out of these six pieces: 1+2, 1+3, 1+4, 2+5, 2+6, 3+5, 4+5... Yes, that covers a full week! I've tried all these combinations, and they all look good. 

Items I don't like: 

7 - MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Satin-trimmed cady tuxedo-style dress in IT 38. This tuxedo dress is cool, but its cut is off. The front is cut too low and too revealing. Since all the buttons are fixed and decorative, I see no way of fixing it.

8 - VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ANGLOMANIA Rosha printed silk jacket in IT 38. I only have one word to describe it: nightmare. Look at the pictures and see how it fits the model. Sloppy and wrinkled, right? OK, it wrinkles even more on me. 

I'm also hunting for a pair of heeled sandals. This season, I'm looking for simple design and color block. Don't ask me why. I happen to be in this bright springy mood. So I ordered 4 pairs of sandals from net-a-porter. Unfortunately they are all going back.  

9 - ACNE STUDIOS Tillie croc-effect leather sandals in IT 36. This is the best pair of the four. I love its soft leather and neutral color. The 100 mm heels are incredibly comfortable for the height. Unfortunately size 36 is too big for me. 

10 - CHRISTOPHER KANE Elastic-paneled matte-leather slingbacks in IT 35. Love its design and color. But the heels are killing me!

11 - NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD Color-block woven, suede and leather sandals in IT 35. If you're following my blog, you might have noticed that I'm a big fan of Nicholas Kirkwood shoes. This pair is simply chic and beautiful. And the 70 mm heels are perfect for walking. I could run for my train in these. But the distribution of weight is off. The heels are too heavy and the front is too light. As a result, I literally have to lift the heels and it rubs the back of my ankle with every step I take. Yes, I love its color combo, mixed texture and stylish heels, but not to the extent of shedding my precious blood. 

12 - PIERRE HARDY Striped elaphe, leather and suede sandals in FR 35. I have a pair of Pierre Hardy color block sandals and I love them. So I had very high expectation of this pair. Unfortunately this pair doesn't like me! To be honest, I didn't even put them on because ... I was not able to! The zippers were stuck, on both shoes! Bummer...

OK. Now you probably see how picky I am with shoes. I have to say: shoes are just like your man; only you know whether you've found your perfect pair or not. Take your time! :)

Some other pieces I've got recently:

13 - DVF Selene Ruched Silk Jersey Dress In Jungle Diamond in 0. Office appropriate. Perfect fit. Neutral color. Good price.

14 - A DVF wrap dress I can no longer find online. It is of this New Julian Two style and this Ink Leopard Simple Pink color. 

15 - Color Pop Embroidered Tunic dress by Chloe Oliver in XSP from Anthropologie. I bought it a while ago at full price and took it with me to Central Europe. Unfortunately the weather was too cold and I had no chance of wearing it. It's very breezy and comfortable. The beaded panels on the side are fabulous. Now it's on sale! Note: Its lining is tight on the chest. Size up if you are busty. I wear the smallest size in almost all brands, but the XXSP one did not fit me. I could put it on, and it looked OK in the mirror, but I could barely breathe. 

16 - Matilde Dress in size 2, black & white from Anthropologie. Classic fit-and-flare dress in comfortable stretchy fabric and springy polka dot print. Bra friendly. Another piece that traveled with me to Europe and came back unused. :)

17 - JCrew Vintage Denim Jacket in Patina Wash in XS. Denim jacket is back, and I've been hunting for one in light wash that is complementary to my dark DVF denim jacket. This one is the answer: soft fabric, light wash, cropped fit, classic no-fussy style, clean cut. 

18 - JCrew Denim Western Shirt in Pale Indigo in size 0. Lighter than a denim jacket and thicker than a cotton blouse, a denim shirt is always handy on a breezy summer evening walk. 

Now I know I have established the reputation of shopaholic on the blog... Well, hope you all have a happy shopping season! :)

Vienna, Prague and Budapest (2): Dark History of Hungary

我们的第二站是布拉格，不过我先接着上篇讲讲匈牙利。匈牙利的近现代史跟中国很有相似之处。

前面说过了，别看匈牙利现在不厉害，人祖上也是阔过的。在这片土地上，马儿扎人，土耳其人，斯拉夫人，一拨拨的打来打去，Habsburg，奥特曼，奥匈，一个个的王国呼拉拉的起起落落。匈牙利的真正衰落源自一战，而这次的衰落又直接导致了它在二战中的灾难和战后的悲剧。

中学历史老师讲述的一战，我只记得两条：一个是＂萨拉热窝事件奥匈帝国的王储遇刺是一战的导火索＂，一个是＂这是一场狗咬狗的非正义的战争＂。这俩都没错。

王储被杀本身很抓马：太子妃好象出身不高贵，不能参加正式的国事活动，不能在正式场合分享群众对太子的致敬。所以呢，太子爷为了哄老婆高兴，在萨拉热窝出差的时候特地安排了跟太子妃一起参观医院，结果波斯尼亚青年会的塞族恐怖分子就抓住机会把这个反波独的太子爷和他老婆一起给干掉了。最搞笑的是，本来安排的两次暗杀都没成功，一个打偏了，一个反应太慢没来得及出招人家就踏雪无痕了。最后是太子爷的车走错了路，正撞上一个揣着小手枪的恐怖分子，他想也没想拔枪就射，居然成就了大业。

那时候奥匈帝国可是超级大国，雄霸一方不可一世，趁机就犯了反恐扩大化的错误，于是就打起来啦。当时的皇帝就是Sisi的老公。Franz Josef 恐怕没有料到的是，越来越多的国家被卷入了战争。历经四年多，人数占优的协约国打败了德奥为首的同盟国（43 million vs. 25 million），导致欧洲版图大变样。

别看匈牙利闹独立的时候跟奥地利打打杀杀的，真一致对外起来还是不含糊的。虽然军队战斗力不强，但是超级忠心超级有纪律性，其结果就是伤亡惨重，匈牙利的战斗伤亡率在奥匈帝国里面是最高的，可见农民兄弟就是实在。战争结束以后，奥匈帝国被瓜分。中学历史只学过凡尔塞条约，其实那只是诸多条约中的一个，有一个跟匈牙利关系密切的条约叫Treaty of Trianon。根据这个耻辱的条约，匈牙利原本30多万平方公里的土地锐减为9万平方公里，另外20多万平方公里的土地上诞生了捷克斯洛伐克 波兰 南斯拉夫等国家，意大利 罗马尼亚乘机扩大领土，光是罗马尼亚占领的土地就超过10万平方公里。匈牙利丧失出海口，由此变成一个内陆国家，一獗不振。单单一个条约就划掉2/3的领土，跟这个比，中国近代史上签定的那些丧权辱国的条约简直是萤火之于日月，李鸿章之流恐怕也是尽力了。弱肉强食，败军之国实在没有什么讨价还价的余地，哪有什么平等可言？

又割地又赔款，匈牙利国内对这个条约气愤异常，直接导致了右翼势力的抬头和二战初期跟德国的结盟。仗着德国撑腰，匈牙利在1938-1940年边打仗边谈判陆续收回了一些领土，交换条件就是参加了万恶的轴心国。

匈牙利对德国就远不如对奥地利那么忠心了。国内支持和反对的两股势力此消彼长，虽然军队跟在德国人屁股后面打仗，在反犹问题上却时冷时热，打到后来还干脆悄悄的跟苏联谈起判来。这下西特勒可就真恼了，直接派兵打到了布达佩斯。短短半年以后，苏联也打进来了，匈牙利沦为战场，到处被炸得乱七八糟的，后来更被苏联控制长达40+年之久。

在布达佩斯对我触动最深的是House of Terror，记录了匈牙利自二战以来的黑暗历史。作为一个历史盲，我想当然的以为这里主要是犹太人被杀戮和迫害的历史，看完了才发现意识形态的斗争对这个国家的伤害更为深重。

匈牙利当然是对不起犹太人的。二战初期，为了迎合德国，匈牙利限制了犹太人的很多权利，但是并没有大规模的把他们送进集中营。随着战争的深入和对德国的日益依赖，匈牙利诞生了一个亲德的党派，叫Arrow Cross Party，随着这个党派的浮沉，犹太人的命运也起起伏伏。这个党失势了，犹太人就只是损失些公民权利；这个党得意了，犹太人就大批的被送到集中营被杀戮，或者被送到条件艰苦的labor camp干苦力（比如挖矿），那种环境里能活下来的都是达尔文花园里的奇葩。后来德国占领了匈牙利，犹太人就是砧板上的肉，愈发没有活路了。当时有不少外国友人扮演辛德勒的角色，发假外国护照，给他们提供庇护或帮助他们逃离，但是毕竟杯水车薪，能获救的都是上辈子拯救了银河系的。

苏联对犹太人（和其他匈牙利人）也好不到哪里去。有的犹太人，刚刚从德国人的labor camp里面熬出来，又被苏联人抓走去劳教，干的也一样是伐木修路挖矿这样的苦力活。不光劳动繁重，食品匮乏，苏联人还故意不给他们给力的工具，通过劳其体肤来达到催其意志的＂教育＂目的。劳教人员的主流则是各种不同政见者。事实上，共产党在匈牙利原本是没有什么群众基础的。在中国，共产党是土生土长打了N年内战外战逐渐发展壮大的，而在匈牙利，共产党原本非常弱小，可以说是苏联的大炮坦克把共产主义空降到这个国家。为了壮大势力，匈共来者不拒，很多原来的Arrow Cross Party的党员见风使舵，趁机脱下了纳粹的皮，换上了匈共的衣，继续欺压犹太人和其他匈牙利人。

走走House of Terror，看到的东西都似曾相识：苏联顾问的权倾一时，粮食和土地的收归国有，国有化以后的饥荒，文化上的向苏联老大哥看齐（比如研究苏联画家是如何画列宁像，要求匈牙利画家依葫芦画瓢），经济上的假大空（比如用锡器冒充银器），宗教上的把宗教领袖以叛国罪判以终身监禁，security police的监视和酷刑，朋友家人之间的相互揭发告密，连描绘共产主义下人民幸福生活的宣传画都跟咱们的如出一辙。不同的是，咱们虽然承认了那个时代的存在，却都是春秋笔法欲焉不详。我走过这些陈列，穿过冰冷酸臭的囚室，推想我们的父辈祖父辈经历的过去，不由得不寒而栗感同身受，心灵的震撼是可想而知的。

但是，匈牙利人历史上是享受过民主的，所以这样的高压很快带来了民众的反抗，那边斯大林一死，这边就爆发了1956年的革命（or 反革命）。和很多革命一样，起初是学生游行请愿，遭到当局镇压，学生遇难，士兵倒戈，骚动从而席卷全国。苏联驻军和security police被袭击，旧政府垮台，以改革派Imgr Nagy为首的新政府顺应民意，宣布要退出华沙条约，寻求政治中立，承诺实行政治改革和民主选举，并要求苏联撤军。。。我们知道，苏联撤军那是1991年的事儿了。经历了短暂的摇摆以后，苏联出兵镇压，Nagy向西方求助得不到回应，新政府被推翻，Nagy被抓起来处死，1956年革命凄惨收场。。。国小民弱，就是这般连个中立都搞不定，只能沦为大国的炮灰。

当然，那个年代的西方也好不到那里去，美国的反共和麦卡锡主义也搞得人人自危。都说投胎要带GPS，我看除此以外还需要夜观天象查查黄道吉日，你我没有生长生活在意识形态挂帅的时代，实在是万幸之事。

布达佩斯的国会大厦对面的墙壁上有不少假弹孔，就是纪念这场失败的反苏革命的。这个国会大厦，是仅次于英国国会的全球第二大国会大厦，临着多瑙河，很是壮观，夜景尤其美丽。(Click for large pictures)

国会大厦背后的Liberty Square旁边则有Imgr Nagy的铜像，Nagy站在小桥上眺望远方，不知道对今天彻底摆脱苏联真正独立的匈牙利又作何感想呢？

虽然革命失败，匈牙利政府还是逐渐缓和了高压政策。相对其他共产主义国家，这里的人民享有较好的人权，较自由的经济，所以被称为"goulash communism"，国家逐渐走上了有匈牙利特色的共产主义道路。

Goulash是中欧一带的家常菜，类似咱们的红烧牛肉，起源正是匈牙利。有趣的是，维也纳和布拉格的goulash都是有点sauce的红烧肉，而布达佩斯的goulash是红烧牛肉汤，有时候还会装在面包碗里面卖。不管汤多汤少，根中国菜味道有些相似，都很好吃。